Promotion PANDORA Cadeau avec Achat 1-14 Fevrier - PANDORA Promotion Gift with Purchase February 1-14th

Du 1 au 14 fevrier,

Achetez 150$ ou plus de bijoux PANDORA et recevez un coffret de bijoux en forme de coeur (d'une valeur de 45$)*

*Details en magasin

From February 1st to the 14th,

Buy 150$ or more of PANDORA Jewellery and receive a free heart-shaped PANDORA jewellery box (retail value 45$)*

*Details in store

Related tags: gift, jewellery, ladies, pandora, promotion, valentines

Pre-Basel 2012 - New Hamilton Khaki Navy Pioneer

Hamilton Khaki Navy Pioneer

It's been 120 years since the inception of the Hamilton brand, and to celebrate this milestone the company will be producing a limited edition model called the Navy Pioneer.

Clocking in at 46mm with an expansive silver dial and blued hands the Pioneer is clearly inspired by marine clocks, a specialty of Hamilton in the early 20th century. Featuring a manual-wind 6498 calibre movement, the watch will be produced in stainless steel as a series of 1892 examples.

What makes the watch really special, however, is that it is convertible. The watch can be removed from the wrist mount and installed into an included wooden box with gimbal system, making it into a desk clock styled to resemble a marine chronometer.

You can expect to see the Navy Pioneer in stores later this year - if you are interested, it would be best to contact us and place a deposit to secure one. In general Hamilton limited editions sell out very quickly and the only way to ensure delivery is to pre-order.

Related tags: 6497, 6498, desk clock, hamilton, heritage, limited edition, manual wind, marine, swiss, unitas

Watches in Depth - Movement Calibres

When perusing watch reviews and blogs, you’ll often read about ETA and Valjoux movements, or perhaps “manufacture” calibres. Perhaps you have heard of module complications or modified calibres in various brands. To the uninitiated this sort of under-the-hood jargon can be a bit confusing, and it warrants some clarification. Even seasoned watch lovers might not be aware of what is involved in the creation of a watch movement, and how many brands share common parts and calibres. So in the spirit of watch nut education, I present the latest instalment of Watches in Depth – Movement Calibres.

First off, it should be made clear that not every brand creates its own movements. In fact the majority of brands don’t, instead relying on outside suppliers to design and manufacture movements (or components) that they can use in their own watches. The 800-pound gorilla of Swiss movement production is ETA SA, part of the manufacturing arm of the Swatch Group. ETA supplies the vast majority of finished movements, parts and base calibres to the Swiss industry, as well as making movements for watch brands within the Swatch group (for example: Hamilton, Tissot, Rado – all use ETA movements, while Omega has used exclusively modified ETA calibres along with in-house designs). ETA has grown to its current position over many decades of consolidation and takeovers of various manufacturers, eventually being integrated into the SMH group (which became the Swatch Group in 1998) – but all that convoluted history will be saved for future blog post.

Within the ETA hierarchy you have various arms that build specific things – ETA makes basic calibres and Valjoux chronographs (i.e. the 7750), Nouvelle Lemania is integrated into Breguet and produces chronograph calibres (like the Omega 1861/1863 and base calibres for Patek Philippe and Breguet), Frederic Piguet makes complicated calibres for top-level watches, Nivarox makes specialized springs and metal alloys, and so on. Swatch and ETA dominates the Swiss industry – not only in complete movements, but also in the production of specialized items required by other manufactures. Up until present they have also been the largest producer of ebauches, which are unfinished base movement “kits” sent to a company for finishing and modification in-house.

This has caused a lot of issues recently – Nicholas Hayek began a process of stemming the flow of parts and movements to companies outside the Swatch Group several years ago. This cutting-off process has continued, with Swatch set to reduce supply to 85% of 2010 levels this year (2012), with the intention of severing the supply to third parties outside the Swatch Group entirely in the next few years. A series of lawsuits have been fielded in Swiss court over the issue, with several major brands filing class action suits to fight the cut that could jeopardize their production. Unfortunately for these brands, the Swiss courts have so far ruled in favour of Swatch. It will be interesting to see how the industry shifts in the next five years to accommodate this new policy – we are already seeing many brands develop in-house calibres to supplement ETA supplies and reduce their dependency on Swatch, but it is a slow and expensive process that is only available to large companies that can afford to design, develop and produce a movement from scratch (some examples would be Alpina and Frederique Constant with their Manufacture models, Tag Heuer’s 1887 chronograph, Breitling’s B01, and Hublot’s Unico). 

When it comes to ETA calibres, an ETA movement is not simply one-size-fits-all. There are four standardized “grades” of movements available, each with different performance and some key differences in parts. Standard is the basic, least expensive level – they are undecorated and feature economy parts to keep the cost low. Standard is what you would find in an automatic Swatch. Elabore is the next step up, still without decoration but with some upgraded parts, and is adjusted in 3 positions to a slightly higher degree of accuracy. You will find Elabore in Hamiltons, and it is the least expensive grade of chronograph available. Top, or Top Soigne (top care) is the third grade – it is decorated with polished components and a combination of perlage and geneva striping (specific patterns and finishes are chosen by the purchasing brand) on the bridges, uses blued screws, has upgraded jewels and balance assemblies, and is adjusted in 5 positions to near-chronometer accuracy. U-Boat uses Top grade 7750s in its limited edition and gold collections. Chronometer is the highest level – it is essentially a Top Soigne that has been adjusted to meet COSC specs, and is sent out for chronometer testing (every Chronometer grade is accompanied by a COSC timing certificate for that specific movement; that adds a considerable amount to the price of the movement compared to the Top Soigne). Rado uses a Chronometer grade ETA movement in their Sintra XXL Skeleton.

So what is a company to do if it would prefer not to use ETA (or as will soon happen, can’t use their calibres)? There are a few other companies that offer complete movements to third parties in Switzerland, but none have anything close to ETA’s dominance of the market. Selitta is one of the largest suppliers at the moment, having begun as an assembly centre for ETA before building complete calibres. Their movements are copies of ETA designs that have expired patents, but with some subtle differences in parts and finishing – ETA and Sellita parts are not interchangeable, despite their similarities in design. Alpina and Frederique Constant use Sellita automatic calibres in some of their models (aside from the hand-wound, chronograph, and manufacture watches). They also produce a range of semi-complicated models, mostly calendar complications (moonphase, triple-date). Unfortunately Sellita is having a hard time with the Swatch group at the moment, as it currently gets nearly 50% of its parts from ETA. Sellita was one plaintiff in the class action suit that was filed in 2011. The company will need to adapt, expand, and integrate more production to remain competitive – and it looks like it will become very competitive in the next few years, as at the moment it is the only viable supplier of low-cost, easy-to-service calibres outside of ETA. 

Soprod is a smaller producer of complete movements, and generally produce higher-grade calibres that are well suited to midrange independent brands. They have proprietary designs finished to a high degree, something along the lines of an ETA Top Soigne. The also produce a range of quartz calibres. Like Sellita, they began as a facility dedicated to finishing and modifying ETA calibres (as well as building complication modules made to bolt onto existing calibres), but have recently begun producing their own designs.

Dubois-Depraz is a name that is often referenced within the industry, being one of the top manufacturers of complication modules (a module is a kit that attaches to an existing movement to add additional functions). A family-run business since 1901, they are based in the Vallee de Joux and offer an independent alternative to Frederic Piguet calibres. They don’t produce complete movements, but do offer high-quality complications to companies that don’t have the resources to build their own designs from the ground up, or to companies that would prefer to use tested and reliable modules rather than attempting to build something from scratch. They supply some major brands that would otherwise claim to be vertically integrated manufactures – Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, for example. Dubois-Depraz makes a variety of modules but is best known for chronograph and calendar complications. Occasionally you will see their name referenced in a watch catalogue (Marvin and Tag Heuer disclose their use of DD modifications), in which case it means that they provided the module for that particular calibre. Just because a brand uses DD doesn’t make them any less of a manufacture – Dubois Depraz is one of the highest quality, most trusted producers of mechanisms in Switzerland, and there is no shame in having one of their modifications in your watch.

Many brands will tout proprietary modifications to outside calibres. At the most basic level this usually means some finishing work and a personalized rotor or engraving on the movement. In some instances the calibre may be modified beyond recognition – such as with the aforementioned Dubois Depraz modules. Another good example would be the Panerai OPX series, which is based on the ETA/Unitas 6497 but modified with unique bridges, a swan neck regulator, and chronometer performance. The standard practice was for ETA to provide ebauches (unfinished movement kits) to outside brands for them to decorate, modify and assemble in-house. The supply of ebauches, like complete movements, is going to be restricted by the Swatch Group from this point on.

There are some watch brands that will share their in-house calibres with other brands that wish to have a better quality movement than an ETA calibre. Jaeger LeCoultre is perhaps the best-known watch brand that supplies movements to others companies (IWC, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet being some notable users of JLC calibres, all three brands being a part of the Richemont group along with Jaeger). Zenith provided the El Primero chronograph movement to several brands, most famously to Rolex for the Daytona. JLC is known for mass-producing top-level movements (as well as some very impressive complications) that are well suited to a more prestigious brand looking for the best quality calibres. They have the production capability to serve outside brands, something that few manufacturers in that level of the market can boast.

The top tier of watch production is the manufacture, where a watch brand will produce its own movements in-house without relying on outside suppliers (except for specialized bits and pieces, like springs, screws, jewels, and shock absorbers). These companies attempt to have vertical integration (control from start to finish) of their production; Rolex is perhaps the most vertically integrated of all, controlling even the foundries that provide metal for their watchcases and components. It may surprise the reader to learn that many large companies with well-integrated production still rely on outside companies to make their cases, straps, and dials.

A. Lange and Sohne pride themselves on their self-sufficiency when constructing movements – they are one of the only brands to produce their own hairsprings, something that is more often than not entrusted to Nivarox. Even Lange used Nivarox until they were able to develop their own formula and production method to create their own springs.

The manufacture (also called in-house) movement is considered a symbol of watchmaking prowess and quality. It commands a significant premium, as it is considerably more expensive to develop and manufacture a proprietary design than it is to buy an existing movement. The outlay in developing an in-house calibre is enormous, a luxury not available to most small brands. Alpina and Frederique Constant share a facility that makes movements for their flagship models, which are among the least expensive in-house Swiss calibres on the market (starting under three thousand).

In general a watch that boasts a manufacture calibre will be five thousand and up. Jaeger LeCoultre, A. Lange und Sohne, Girard Perregaux, Rolex, Zenith – these are some of principle brands that make their movements in-house. Other brands, like Panerai and IWC, make some of their movements in-house while still relying on outside calibres for the bulk of their production. The premium paid, and the adoration of the market, for an in-house calibre has a lot to do with cachet and marketing. It shows that the brand cares enough to invest in its own production, rather than relying on outsiders to keep the wheels turning. It also means the product is more distinctive and exclusive than brands that use off-the-shelf movements. With the Swatch group cutting supplies, investing in the manufacturing of proprietary movements is going to be the make-or-break decision for a lot of independent brands. In any case in-house designs incur much higher production costs to develop a movement and invest in the tooling and production facilities, something that needs to be amortized by charging a premium for the end product. That’s what makes Alpina and Frederique Constant exceptional; they are able to provide a manufacture calibre for considerably less than other brands would charge. There is a premium over the “standard” models, but it is very reasonable considering the work involved.     

Many balk at the current practice of movement sharing among brands. Certainly the Swatch Group took exception to their competitors relying on their production to compete with their own brands. While it is true that you will find the same movement in many different watches at many different price points, it should not diminish the quality of the product. ETA movements may be common, but they are popular for good reason – nothing is as economical, well built, reliable and easy to service. They are workhorse calibres that do their job without fuss. And they are the “tracteur” calibres of the industry – movements that lend themselves well to tuning to chronometer performance. ETA movements occupy a significant portion of COSC certification. And in the long term, any competent watchmaker can service an ETA movement, regardless of the brand of the watch. Parts and after-sales service are always readily available for ETA calibres.

Calibre sharing is not a new practice by any means. Many vintage collectors will extol the virtues of the good old days when all brands made their own movements… But this is a bit too nostalgic. While there were many more brands building their own movements before the Quartz Crisis of the 70s, sharing was still very common. Venus, Valjoux, Landeron, Lemania – all produced complicated movements for other brands. Audemars provided complex ebauches and complete movements for many major brands, including Breguet and LeCoultre. Patek Philippe used Lemania calibres, and continues to do so. Rolex used Valjoux movements in their chronographs. While many companies made their own basic (uncomplicated) movements in house, many of them were not particularly notable – just because they were “in-house” doesn’t mean they were any good. A lot weren’t, back before quartz came along there were plenty of cheap and nasty mechanical movements that filled the lower end of the market (pin-lever, non-jewelled movements with stamped metal components being rather unimpressive).

The sharing of parts and movements is one of the quirks of the Swiss watch industry. It’s a system that has few parallels – it’s hard for the average person to imagine 20 or 30 car companies all using the same engines made by a single supplier (aside from some badge-engineering in sister brands within the same company). After the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s it was hard for small brands to justify the expenditure involved in creating their own movements when good off-the-shelf components were available.  Most of the prior industry (parts, tools, factories and craftspeople) had been dissolved in the panic following the Crisis, making it even more difficult for small brands to start independent production. With the current move towards isolationism in Swatch production you are sure to see a shift in the industry in the near future. We have already witnessed the beginning of an “in-house revolution” where many brands are scrambling to produce their own movements. Swatch Group’s decisions have provided the impetus for this activity, and things will only progress more quickly from now onward.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: Valjoux, calibre, eta, faq, lemania, movements, selitta, soprod, swatch, swiss, watches in depth

Alpina Extreme Sailing Automatic

Alpina has been on a roll lately, after introducing several cool new models (including the Startimer and Extreme Sailing, and the upcoming Heritage Pilot) that have really put the spotlight back onto the brand. The new theme seems to be better design, better quality, and lowered retail prices overall. The new Extreme Sailing Automatic in particular offers exceptional value; it’s a clean, functional and good-looking watch that appears far more expensive than it is.

The Sailing was introduced in Basel last year to minimal fanfare. The new Startimer was released alongside it, and that model got most of the media attention. Alpina placed emphasis on the Sailing Regatta model, with a countdown timer, providing little information on the basic automatic version of the same watch. So when we received the Sailing Automatic in store, we were pleasantly surprised by how exceptional it was - particularly for a Swiss watch retailing for a bit over 1000$.

The Sailing features a 44mm stainless steel case that has squared-off proportions and short strap lugs. It’s water-resistant to 300 metres, so it is a useable dive watch that won’t be bothered by a trip to the pool. The design is simple but very nicely done – while measuring a pretty substantial 44mm, it wears really comfortably owing to the short strap lugs and square shape. It’s a big watch that can be worn by anyone; it will fit any wrist size with ease. The case is well finished, with some angular detailing on the sides and a nice mix of polished and brushed portions.

The rotating bezel has a sapphire insert, a nod to the IWC Aquatimer and a welcome addition to any dive watch. The traditional metal insert used by most companies is simple but prone to scratching and fading. Ceramic inserts are becoming popular but are expensive to produce and replace. The compromise is the sapphire insert, which has the marking printed on the backside of a slice of sapphire crystal. It makes for a very scratch-resistant insert, and gives the watch a really appealing look. The challenge of any designer producing a dive watch is to make a distinctive model that does not end up looking like the prototypical Rolex Submariner (or Omega Seamaster) which is what 90% of dive watches seem to look like at the end of the day. I think Alpina nailed it with the Sailing.

The caseback has an exhibition window to show off the movement, a Selitta calibre automatic modified and decorated by Alpina. It’s a damn nice looking movement in this price range – check out the perlage, blued screws, and Geneva striping. Most movements in this range would be undecorated with plain matte finish parts, so hats off to Alpina for giving us a little bit extra under the hood without charging a premium.

The dial and hands are very well done, simple with subtle detailing. The dial is a matte black finish with applied hour markers, though at first glance they might appear printed. It gives the face a little extra depth without going overboard or making it too cluttered. The hands are wide luminescent batons that are easy to spot at a glance, a must on a functional watch such as this. The date is displayed at 3 o’clock in traditional fashion – better than the old Extreme Diver, which had a cutaway window that showed 7 days at once, and only put numbers on the odd dates, which looked cool but made it hard to read the date quickly.

The strap is a soft silicon rubber item that is extremely comfortable. While soft, we have had good experience with Alpina rubber straps – typically they are rugged while remaining very supple. Two optional metal bracelets are available – a link item with hidden clasp, and a shark-mesh diving bracelet.

All Sailing models are limited editions, just like the Startimer. Each version is limited to 8888 pieces and comes in a presentation case with a scale model catamaran.

The Alpina Extreme Sailing is a winner in my books. It’s well made, looks great, wears well, and it is very reasonably priced considering how nice the finishing is. It’s hard to find an automatic Swiss dive watch in this price range that is even comparable; I can think of a few, but none are as nice as the Sailing. It’s a shame that Alpina didn’t do more to promote this model, as I feel it is a highlight of their 2011-2012 lineup – so I’ll do my bit to shill for them and say it here: the Sailing Auto is a no-brainer, a fantastic watch that is really well priced and looks amazing. For more info on Alpina or anything else we have in store, call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: alpina, automatic, diver, diving, regatta, sailing, swiss

PANDORA Gift with Purchase Jan 26-31 - PANDORA Cadeau avec Achat 26-31 Janvier

From January 26th to 31st,

Buy 150$ or more of PANDORA Jewellery and receive a free sterling silver PANDORA ring of your choice (valued up to 60$)*

*Details in store

Du 26 au 31 janvier,

Avec tout achat de bijoux PANDORA de 150$ ou plus, recevez une bague en argent sterling de votre choix (valeur maximale de 60$)*

*Voir details en magasin

Related tags: Pandora, bracelet, charms, gift, jewellery, ladies, promotion, rings

Pre-Basel 2012 : Frederique Constant Carrera Panamerica Limited Edition

Pre-Basel 2012 – Frederique Constant Carrera Panamerica Limited Edition

Along with the Alpina Heritage Pilot (Alpina and FC are sister brands), Frederique Constant will be releasing a new limited edition series to compliment the recent Peking to Paris chronograph models at this year’s Baselworld show. This new series will be named in honor of the Carrera Panamerica, a 3300km road race through Mexico that began in 1950 to showcase the opening of the new Panamerica highway.

The series takes cues from the previous Runabout, Healey and Peking limited edition series. Two models will be available, both with 43mm stainless steel cases – one will have a silver dial with steel hour markers, the other will have silver with rose gold tone markers and hands. Unlike the previous editions, these new Panamericas will feature a hand-wound FC-435 calibre movement (the old models had automatic movements).

Like the outgoing Healey limited edition, a matching hand-wound stopwatch will accompany each watch. Even if you never use a stopwatch, it’s a cool addition that adds a lot of value to the package. You don’t see mechanical stopwatches much anymore.

Each watch will be limited to 1888 examples and both versions have the race logo emblazoned (in restrained fashion) on the dials. Expect to see the Panamerica in-store sometime in late 2012.    

Related tags: carrera, frederique constant, healey, limited edition, manual wind, mechanical, panamerica, peking to paris, runabout, stopwatch, swiss

Pre-Basel 2012 - Alpina Heritage Pilot 50mm Limited Edition

Pre-Basel 2012 : New Alpina Heritage Pilot

Baselworld is fast approaching (March 8-15^th) and that means it is time for manufacturers to start revealing their latest and greatest models for the 2012 season. Occasionally a marque will reveal some information ahead of the show (like Rado did with their D-Star 200 Diver), as Alpina has done this year with its new Heritage Pilot model.

The Heritage Pilot takes inspiration from aviator designs of the 1930s, with a large (50mm – yes FIFTY millimetres, putting this into U-Boat territory) case, sub-seconds display, simple luminescent dial and hands with a vintage Alpina logo. It features a hand-wound Unitas-based calibre movement (shared with several existing Extreme Regulator models) that is visible through a hunter-caseback – an exhibition back protected by a hinged cover, not something you see very often outside of a few Patek Philippe models nowadays.

Alpina has been around for over 100 years and produced pilot’s watches during the 1930s, including one model that is a clear inspiration for this edition (move the seconds from 6 to 9 o’clock and you have a perfect idea of what it looked like). It may be “retro” (which seems to be the in-thing this year) but they have the heritage to back it up.

Details are limited at this point, but we know it will be offered in stainless steel in a limited series of 1883 examples. Keep your eyes on the Baily Blog for more details as they become available.

Related tags: Alpina, handwind, heritage, limited edition, mechanical, pilot, startimer, swiss, unitas

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Safari

When it comes to big, bold, haute-horlogerie sport watches Audemars Piguet is the brand to beat. Since 1972 their signature Royal Oak series has become a legendary model that has aged gracefully and received numerous evolutionary updates over the decades to keep it fresh. The Royal Oak Offshore, in particular, has become a huge hit for the brand since it was introduced in 1993, and it remains their signature model. This week I will be profiling one of the most popular Offshores, the “Safari” edition.

The Royal Oak was introduced in 1972 as a high-end steel sportwatch, a novel concept at the time. Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta (father of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the “other” high end steel nautical watch) the Royal Oak was a sensation when it was introduced – but not for the best reasons. Many balked at the exorbitant price being charged for a watch made of steel, which rivalled the pricing of gold watches (in fact it was more than some 18k pieces that AP was producing at the time). A first-generation 5402ST sold new for 3200 CHF in 1972 – more than 10 times the price of a contemporary steel Rolex Submariner!

The early ROs were also offered in 18k gold and gold and steel combined. The style was very distinctive, clearly inspired by shipbuilding with a porthole-shaped bezel with screws locking the case components together. The name came from a series of warships fielded by the British Navy from the 1600s to the 20^th century (the most recent HMS Royal Oak was sunk in 1939 by a German U-Boat while anchored near Orkney, Scotland). The size was large for the time as well, with a Jumbo model clocking in at a 39mm (it appears larger than the size would suggest with the integrated bracelet, which was an industry first that inspired many imitators during the 70s). Reception was lukewarm at first, but despite the criticism the design became a hit. The initial poor feedback was quickly forgotten, as the Royal Oak became a flagship model for AP. It was a victory for the company during a difficult time for the Swiss industry, and saved the brand from bankruptcy during the Quartz Crisis.

The Royal Oak was distinguished by its use of a milled-steel case secured from the front by 8 screws, a design that ensured good water resistance. Movements were slim Jaeger LeCoultre automatic calibres. This relationship with JLC continued for quite some time, until 2005 the base calibres for most AP automatics are provided by Jaeger. The bracelet was integrated into the case with a hidden foldover clasp, a design that has persisted to this day. The basic Royal Oak is still available from AP, and has formed the basis of numerous high-complication and haute-joallerie models. The most popular Royal Oak today is the Offshore, a supersized Royal Oak with chronograph.

The Offshore (often affectionately called the ROO or APROO by watch geeks) was introduced in 1993. It became a hit after Arnold Schwarzenegger began promoting the brand in the United States, wearing some special editions in several of his movies (notably a black PVD 44mm ROO with yellow accents in End of Days, and a titanium 57mm monster in Terminator 3). The Arnold connection persists to this day; last year a special edition The Legacy model was produced with part of the profits going to his “After School All-Stars” children’s charity. The partnership between AP and Arnold is one of the most enduring celebrity relationships with a high-end watch brand, one that is more than the typical short-term marketing and sponsorship.

The ROO is usually a chronograph (aside from the Scuba and Diver), available in either 42mm or 44mm (or bigger) depending on the edition. The larger sizes are usually reserved for limited edition pieces. The classic ROO is 42mm, but don’t let the “modest” diameter fool you – these are hefty watches that wear much bigger on the wrist, owing mainly to the massive design of the lugs mounts. Some sources will quote a 44mm diameter, this is true if you include the crown guard on the right side of the watch, but don’t confuse this with the true 44mm models, which are in fact bigger (and would be around 46mm with the crown guard). Bracelets are the classic option but certain models feature leather or synthetic material straps, such as the Safari we have here, which has a brown hornback alligator strap. Dial variations (aside from the classic black and white models) are often tied to specific editions, of which there are dozens – the End of Days, the Shaq, the Rubens Barrichello, and so on. In this vein the Safari has a cream coloured dial with lighter chronograph subdials and blacked-out Arabic numerals.

All Royal Oaks since the beginning have featured a signature waffle-pattern dial that has become synonymous with Audemars. Most Offshores feature applied Arabic numerals with luminescent in-fill, though on the Safari the numbers are filled in with black material. Hands are skeletonized baton items that maintain a minimalist theme. The waffle pattern is more subdued on the Safari (the pattern is larger and shallower than it usually is), which brings out the colour of the dial more. It’s a simple, easy to read setup that suits the sporting quality of the design. Tachymetre scales are printed on the inside of the bezel so as not to disturb the classic screwed-porthole design. The chronograph is arranged in a 12-9-6 layout with a magnified date window at 3 o’clock.

The movement is a superb automatic-winding calibre 3126/3840, a slim design that is unfortunately not visible on this particular model. Certain editions feature a display back to show the beautifully finished calibre, which has a 22k gold rotor and impeccable detail throughout. It’s a 59-jewel design with a 55-hour power reserve that winds buttery smooth. It’s an in-house base calibre with a chronograph module installed on top.

The strap makes the watch, and the hornback alligator item on this ROO makes it a Safari. It’s a distinctive strap that really stands out, and suits the hefty aesthetic. It’s thick, wide, heavily textured, and finely crafted. Like all current ROOs it has the distinctive strap mounts that take after the design of the integrated bracelet (some earlier models had more traditional lugs). There is something special about a ROO on a strap, it’s not exactly dressy but it has a certain massive elegance to it. Think of Arnold Schwarzenegger wearing a tuxedo – he still looks ridiculously proportioned, but somehow it works.

Today the Offshore is one of the most sought after sport designs in the haute-gamme watch market, and Audemars’ most popular model. The Safari is a particularly distinctive variation on the theme, with its impressive hornback strap and cream-coloured dial, part of the reason why it is one of the most popular APROO models. The Safari is now discontinued and getting harder to find; historically Royal Oak Offshores have maintained steady values on the used market, making them good buys for investment-conscious buyers, particularly if you can find a like-new-in-box example of a discontinued model. Which is exactly what we have here, this Safari is in near-mint condition with the original box and all booklets. If you wish to enquire about our Safari or any other pre-owned watches feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: aproo, audemars piguet, automatic, chronograph, haute gamme, high end, offshore, roo, royal oak, safari, sport, swiss

Orbita Watchwinders

Do you need a watch winder? It’s a question we often get asked as purveyors of fine mechanical timepieces. With over 30 years of experience selling fine watches, and just as long repairing and servicing them, we feel that a good quality winder is a sure investment in maintaining your collection and keeping your watches in top order. It’s not only a matter of convenience; it’s part of proper maintenance.

The idea behind a winder is simple – having a moving block that holds the watch, rotating regularly to wind the mechanism when you aren’t wearing it. This is particularly handy if you have more than one automatic, and you are tired of constantly re-setting the time and date whenever you want to wear a watch. But the real benefit is in the long-term – mechanical watches are designed to be used regularly, and if you leave a mechanical movement static for months, the tiny amounts of oil used to lubricate the moving parts will dissipate. This is normal, but if you don’t use the watch often you accelerate the process – with regular use a modern watch can go between 3-5 years between services, but if left static for a long time you will likely have to service the watch within as little as a year. If you have picked up an old watch that has been sitting in a drawer for years and wound the movement, you’ll immediately feel the lack of lubrication through the crown (it feels and sounds like you are crushing sand inside the case).

We recommend running a mechanical watch at least once per week. If you don’t wear it that often, take the time to wind it manually and set it as a matter of habit. At the store we wind and set any watch that we pull out of the cabinet to show a client to ensure our timepieces are functioning properly. We’ve seen many neglected watches that seized due to lack of lubrication after years of sitting idle, and we’ve had many watchmakers tell us time and time again that regular running is critical to ensuring longevity and good performance from a mechanical movement. With a winder you can set and forget your watches and rest assured that the movements will be kept in top order. It’s also very handy if you have a complex date watch, like a triple calendar (or a perpetual calendar, if you are so lucky) where resetting the date is a time-consuming process.

Just like anything else, you have a wide variety of choices when it comes to winders – both in function and in style. Some are good, some are great, and some are terrible. When it comes to function, there are two main types – continuous and intermittent. The cheapest winders you will encounter will be continuous types, meaning that they rotate a pad constantly while turned on. These are to be avoided – constant running, especially if it is only in one direction, puts unnecessary wear on the rotor bearing and winding mechanism of the movement. It also doesn’t give the mainspring a chance to wind down a bit before being rewound - keeping it at full tension all the time has a tendency to bed in the spring, particularly on vintage watches.

Better quality winders are intermittent, and wind in both directions. Most will have various settings for the number of turns per day. Newer movement designs often require less winding than vintage movements, and certain complicated movements require more winding to keep running, hence the advantage of tailored turns-per-day. Bi-directional winding is better for the movement, and also ensures that watches that wind in only one direction will be accommodated (many designs would only wind when the rotor was spinning in one direction, such as any chronograph with a Valjoux 7750 calibre).

Cheaper winders will use Eastern-made motors with plastic internal gears, which have a tendency to strip or break after a few years. They might be cheap to purchase, but they won’t have the longevity of more expensive units. They are also typically very noisy – something that is extremely irritating if you keep the winder near your bedroom at night. The best winders are made in the United States and Switzerland, featuring high-quality silent motors and metal internal components. After having had many brands over the years, we have settled upon Orbita winders as the best quality for the money. These American-made winders are well built, totally silent, and wind the watches efficiently. They also offer an excellent 5-year warranty, though in our experience they have had an almost perfect record for quality and reliability. They also supply winder mechanisms for many major manufacturers, who resell them under their own name or package them with complicated haute-gamme pieces. Audemars Piguet, Ulysse Nardin, Breguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Tag Heuer, Corum… All use Orbita mechanisms. They are also the pioneers of the manual-wind watch winder – the Sempre system that uses an adjustable set of rollers that grip the watch and wind it regularly.

Orbita has two main variants, the Rotorwind lithium system and Programmable AC powered motors. Rotorwinds are the most popular models, and use lithium battery packs that typically last between 3-4 years. The main advantage to the Rotorwind is that it requires no external wiring, so it can be installed in a cabinet or safe without modification. The Programmable models offer more functionality and are typically installed in more luxurious boxes than the Rotorwinds; the Rotorwind models have two turn-per-day settings (high and low), while the AC models have several turn-per-day adjustments. Orbita even provides a database of watch models with their winding directions and recommended turns per day so you can tailor your winder to suit your watch collection.

In either case, many different cabinets and assemblies are available. Orbita provides modular standalone Sparta units without casings, in single, double or triple rotor models. The Monaco and Avanti offer a variety of wood cabinets with optional drawers, glass panels, and add-on capability – certain models can have additional rotor packs installed later as your collection expands. For the serious collector with a large inventory of watches, they offer the flagship Rossi modular system that can be built to suit the individual’s tastes (for a custom safe or room installation, for example). The Bergamo line offers retractable hidden panels integrated into furniture. My personal favourites are the Futura and Tourbillon lines, which feature an open design with very clean, minimalist assemblies that would look right at home in a modern art museum (or a steampunk display). You can have any style you desire, in everything from a single-rotor up to 40-rotors or more.

Quality and finishing is always excellent with Orbita cabinets; the wood is fine and thickly laquered, the glass is heavy and bevelled, the hardware for the hinges and locks is made of polished brass, and all the interiors are lined with soft touch felt. The rotors are big enough to accommodate almost any watch, from ladies model up to a U-Boat. The pads are clever as well – most winders use a hard pillow that doesn’t fit every watch (if you have small wrists and watches with metal bracelets, odds are you won’t even be able to secure the watch at all with hard pillows). Orbita uses a soft rubberized foam pillow that can be compressed as much as needed, but still remain secure.

We have a variety of Orbita winders available in different finishes and styles, and can order larger modular units for personalized setups. If you have more than one automatic watch in your collection a winder is a great investment, and in our opinion Orbita offers some of the best winders for the money on the market. For information on our selection of winders, please call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier   

Related tags: automatic, maintenance, orbita, swiss, watches, watchwinder, winders

Rado D-Star 200 Diver Announced

New Rado D-Star 200 Divers Announced

Matt Baily is Montreal’s latest Rado retailer, and we brought in the brand in anticipation of their new releases for 2012 that promised to bring the brand into the fore of the high-tech watch market after years of conservative design. Now we have our first glimpse of the direction that Rado is going with the new D-Star 200 diving models, announced this week on the Rado website.

Details are relatively scant at this point, with just a few specs and photos released, but the design looks to be a winner and as with any Rado quality and finishing is sure to be impressive. Two models will be available, both automatic – a bicompax chronograph with date, and a three-hand model with date. Rado says that 5 versions of each watch will be available: based on the photos we can expect black and blue colour schemes, and a choice of all steel case and bracelet or a ceramic – steel combination.

Sizes have not been announced, but we would expect something between 42 and 44mm, along the lines of the current D-Star lineup. The design is inspired by bullhead watches from the 1970s, something along the lines of classic Heuer sport chronographs and Omega diving watches from the era. They feature a rounded design with semi-hooded lugs that resembles the current D-Star, but with a more streamlined design and gentler curves. The rotating bezels, colour matched to the dial, really make the design pop. Like most dive watches, it’s more about the look than the function – most people will be buying these for desk-diving, not deep-sea treks. But if you do want to swim with it, all the models are rated to a solid 200m of water resistance.

Movements are automatic Swiss calibres. The three-hand model will use a decorated ETA 2824 movement, while the chronograph uses an exclusive calibre (a Valjoux 7753 modified for Rado, boasting a longer power reserve than a standard Valjoux calibre, called the A05.H31). You can expect reliable, fuss free service from these proven workhorse calibres in either watch. Both models feature an exhibition back to show off the nicely finished movements.

We are looking forward to receiving these new D-Star 200s, hopefully before the end of this year. We have high hopes for the future of Rado design, and these D-Stars look like a winner. Keep your eyes on the Baily Blog for more details about Rado and new developments from all of our brands.

Related tags: automatic, ceramic, chronograph, d-star, dive watch, diver, rado, stainless steel, swiss