Rolex 16710 GMT Master II

When it comes to Rolex sport watches, the GMT-Master is one of the top choices among collectors and watch lovers the world over. More elegant and functional than the Submariner, and more popular than the Explorer, the GMT-Master is a modern classic that has been a brand favourite for over 50 years. The example we have here is the last of the traditional GMT-Masters, the 16710 with “Coke” bezel.

The GMT began with ref 6542, a watch designed in collaboration with Pan-Am airlines that could display multiple timezones and allow for rapid changes between zones for pilots. The solution was relatively simple – an extra hour hand would rotate at half speed (meaning it does one rotation of the dial every 24 hours) to indicate GMT time, while a graduated bezel on the outside of the dial would be marked with a 24 hour scale that could be rotated to add or subtract hours from the GMT time (allowing for an instant readout of any timezone without having to reset the watch). This formula would become the standard for GMT watches, and would continue through the ref 1675, 16750, 16760, 16700, 16710, and the current 116710. The 6542 featured a bakelite acrylic bezel with blue and red halves to indicated day and night on the 24 hour scale; this “Pepsi” colour scheme would become a signature of the line, and was later supplanted by an all-black insert, then a black-red “Coke” bezel.

The GMT-Master has always had an association with aviation throughout its history. There was the original Pan-Am commission (models were made for pilots and for ground crews) and many military pilots wore the GMT-Master as their watch of choice. Chuck Yeager wore one, as did several American astronauts – Jack Swigert on Apollo 13, and Ed Mitchell during the Apollo 14 moon landing as a backup to his NASA-issued Omega Speedmaster. Alan Shepard also had a personal GMT that he wore quite often in public. The Omega was official equipment for the missions, but astronauts often had personal watches that they wore “unofficially” as a backup or a reference to GMT time. Outside of the realm of aviation and space exploration, Tom Selleck has a signature Pepsi bezel GMT (which he wore as Magnum P.I.) and gonzo author Hunter S. Thompson wore two GMTs on one wrist (according to him, one showed the time in Havana, the other in Moscow). Che Guevera wore a Pepsi through the Cuban revolution, up until his assassination (legend has it that it was stolen off his wrist after he was killed). Check out Jake Ehrlich's Rolex blog for details on more famous Rolex owners.  

Many GMT variations were made over the years. Initially all steel and all 18k gold models were available, and later a 14k gold and steel two-tone model was introduced. Later two-tones were 18k and steel. The most popular and sought after versions are the stainless steel models, which reflects a similar demand in the market for Submariners. Movements have always been automatic winding Rolex workhorse calibres, always certified chronometers, modified slightly to add the GMT function. In the case of the 16710, it’s a tried-and-true 3185 calibre with COSC certification. 

The first GMTs, called simply GMT-Master, had a 24-hour hand tied directly to the main hour hand. It always indicated the time of the main hand, different timezones were read off the bezel. The introduction of the GMT-Master II allowed the extra hand to be set independently of the main hours. This allows the wearer to read two different timezones on the dial, and an additional change can be made via the bezel. It also makes the date much easier to set; you pull the crown out to the first position, which allows you to move the hour hand in one-hour increments (without disturbing the minutes, seconds or the GMT hand). You cycle through 24 hours to change the date, which is easy with the quick set hour hand. The original GMT Master had no quickset at all - the date could only be changed by advancing the time 24 hours, and the GMT hand was always directly linked to the hour hand. Later GMT "ones" (the 16750 and 16700) had a quickset date, but didn't have the ability to change the GMT hand relative to the hour hand.

For most of its production, the GMT-Master has always been a more elegant alternative to the Submariner and Sea Dweller. Until the current generation (the 116710 with ceramic bezel) the GMT always had a slender case with a sleeker profile than the diving models. Diameter is 40mm, same as the Sub, but the proportions are different. The choice of colours for the bezel always made the GMT pop on the wrist a bit more; my favourite has always been the classic blue-red Pepsi bezel, but the black-red Coke and all-black inserts are available if you want something more understated. Otherwise the watch is classic sport Rolex – date with Cyclops magnifier, simple dial with luminescent plots and hands, and water-resistant case with screwed-on back and screw-down crown. The “stock” bracelet is normally the Oyster with a fliplock (and the clasp is always smaller than the Sub, as it doesn’t have a diver’s extension link) but you can occasionally find them with optional jubilee bracelets.

Like any Rolex the GMT-Master is a no-nonsense tool watch. It’s simple, easy to read, reliable, and accurate. It makes for a rather boring review, because there isn’t much to say about the design other than “it works”. That is why I love the GMT Master, it’s a classic watch that goes about its business without fuss or flash (much like the Explorer I reviewed a few weeks back). It’s not as collectible as the Submariner, but it has a cult following, and I believe the model has a lot of potential for growth on the used market. Since the 16710 was discontinued in favour of the new ceramic-bezel models (which share the same case as the Submariner), demand has been rising for older GMTs with their slimmer cases and colourful bezels. The older GMT-Masters have always been one of my personal grail watches as well. I’ll take a 1675 with Pepsi bezel and riveted Oyster bracelet, please.

If you have any questions about our selection of Rolex watches, or anything else we have in the store, feel free to call me at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 16710, GMT, automatic, chronometer, gmt master, rolex, swiss

New Rado Sintra XXL Skeleton Chronometer

The latest addition to the Matt Baily lineup is Rado, a favourite brand among fashion conscious trend-setters who want avant-garde design and high-tech materials. A pioneer in the field of composites and ceramic watch cases, Rado has made a name for itself by innovating in a traditionally conservative Swiss watch market. One of the centrepieces of the Rado collection is the Sintra, a tonneau-shaped model available in a variety of ceramic colours with an integrated bracelet. And the flagship of the Sintra collection is the new XXL Skeleton Chronometer, which showcases a beautifully skeletonized automatic movement.

The centrepiece of the design is the COSC certified chronometer movement, an automatic winding ETA calibre that is modified exclusively for Rado. It is skeletonized in a very industrial fashion – the bridges and plates are carved away and finished with a brushed black PVD coating, which contrasts with the silvered finish of some of the moving parts. It’s a minimalist approach that emphasizes the mechanical nature of the movement; usually a skeleton watch is engraved and polished to show off the traditional workmanship, whereas this movement is made to look like a complex modern instrument. It’s spectacular to see in person, it looks like a Richard Mille (at about 1/100^th the price). The watch has an exhibition caseback to show off the movement from the rear, and it is decorated just as nicely from behind as it is from the front.

The dial, such as it is, is mostly the movement with some small three-dimensional hour markers placed around the edge. These markers are continued by dashes added to the underside of the sapphire crystal. Hands are polished silver finish (a goldtone model is also available, with gold hands and gilded details in the movement). The round movement adds a nice design contrast to the tonneau case; like the Bell & Ross Instrument, the round shape within a square case really works to distinguish the style from other more traditional watches (and the rest of the Sintra lineup). The crystal is perfectly integrated into the case as well, for a slick and sleek look without any noticeable transitions, gaps, bezels or edges. There is something really appealing about the design; it’s very futuristic while remaining minimalist. 

The Sintra comes in four sizes, small, large, extra large, and extra extra large. With integrated bracelets, all the models wear bigger than their dimensions would suggest. The Skeleton is only available in the extra extra large men’s size, which is 34mm wide and 44mm long, and it is an imposing timepiece on the wrist. The cuff-like design and tapered case melding into the link bracelet gives the watch a lot of presence, way more than any 34mm wide watch should have. 

The case and bracelet are made of Rado’s ever-popular High Tech Ceramic, a very durable and scratch-resistant material. Nowadays ceramic has become pretty commonplace, but Rado was a pioneer in its use in watches – in the 1970s and 80s. Everyone else only got on the bandwagon in the last 10 years, after the introduction of the mega-hit Chanel J12. It has a deep black colour with a high polish finish that goes very well with the sleek appearance of the watch. It’s also a perfect contrast to the silver details and matt finish of the movement (ditto the goldtone model). The big advantage of ceramic is that you can expect years of service with nary a scratch or scuff on the case and bracelet (unless you go swimming in diamonds or start bashing in on granite countertops).

Generally I would consider myself a traditionalist when it comes to watch design. I like classic, timeless looks and vintage watches; the youngest watch in my personal collection is 30 years old. For the Sintra Skeleton, I am willing to make an exception. I think it is a spectacular design, and recall seeing it announced at Baselworld 2010 and immediately loving the style. In person it is even more impressive, enough to woo conservative buyers like myself away from more traditional fare.

We are pleased to be the latest Rado dealer in the Montreal area, and we have received a number of interesting models for men and women just in time for the holidays. Rado is a very distinctive brand that offers high quality, high tech Swiss watches that stand apart from the crowd. If you have any questions about Rado feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier 

Related tags: black, ceramic, chronometer, ladies, mens, rado, skeleton, swiss, unisex

New U-Boat U-42 Chronograph and 47mm Limited Editions

Last year U-Boat came out with the U-42 limited edition series, a 53mm titanium monster based on a diver’s watch designed in 1942 by Ilvo Fontana, grandfather of company president Italo Fontana. The U-42 was a very distinctive watch that offered a totally unique look in the U-Boat line, one that competed more with the likes of Panerai and Audemars Piguet (but for much less money). This year U-Boat has expanded the U-42 lineup to include an automatic chronograph, as well as a midsize 47mm model to suit more average wrist sizes.

The U-42 is distinguished by its hefty case design, which sits tall on the wrist and is set off by a large rotating bezel. A patented folding crown reduces the profile a bit compared to the usual U-Boat screw-on crown cap. Despite the size, it’s not a heavy watch, owing to the use of Grade 5 titanium for the case. Dials are dark brown with beige luminescent numerals and hands.

The new version take the initial design (which was originally made in a 65mm small 29 piece limited edition as the U-1942) and updates it a bit for a new series of 999 pieces per model. The big news was the release of the U-42 Chronograph in both 53mm and 47mm sizes; this adds the ever-popular Valjoux automatic chronograph to the U-42 and spices up the design of the dial by adding a useful complication. The pushers for the chrono are well integrated so as not to disrupt the case design – the reset pusher is a rectangular U-42 logo that looks like a plaque, while the start-stop button is a dummy crown-release hook as is found on the standard U-42 (it doesn’t hold the crown in place on the chrono, however).

The next big step (no pun intended) for the line was to downscale it to a more reasonable size. 53mm watches are cool, but they aren’t for everyone. To broaden the appeal of the U-42, U-Boat has released a 47mm version of the original and the chronograph. This is great news for those of us with average wrists – the 47mm is big enough to stand out, but not so big that it looks ridiculous on a small wrist. The same was done for the U-1001 series of limited edition dive watches, with the original 55mm being scaled down to 47mm, and the U-51 chronograph which went from 51mm to 46mm. Big is still in, and the 47mms are plenty big, but U-Boat is clearly recognizing that ENORMOUS watches don’t appeal to everyone. The only complaint we ever heard about the U-42 was its imposing size, so now the 47 addresses that issue.

Like all U-42s, each watch is part of a numbered limited series of 999 pieces. All U-42s have a plaque on the side of their case to indicate the serial number (non chrono models also indicate the serial on the dial). Each comes in a massive stainless steel presentation case, numbered to match the watch. U-Boat has always done a great job with presentation of its limited editions, and the U-42 is no exception.

The straps are hand-stitched calfskin leather. They are impressive on their own; the leather is thick and richly dyed with a chestnut brown finish that will age beautifully. The stitching is a heavy waxed cord that is very distinctive. It’s a little rougher than a machine-made strap, which is the whole point. It has a vintage utilitarian look that stands out in a sea of dull, ordinary straps. Anyone who likes custom straps (cough - Panerai nuts – cough) will love the design.

So there you have it – the U-42 lineup expands to suit more wearers. The original design was a very distinctive timepiece that appealed to many but was a bit difficult to wear if you didn’t have large wrists – the 47mm variants address this issue and provide a scaled-down alternative to the 53 that still maintains a significant amount of wrist presence. And the chronograph models adds the functionality of that most useful of complications with a workhorse Valjoux calibre. U-Boat continues to provide interesting and distinctive watches that really stand apart from the crowd, and the U-42 is one of their most unique designs. For more information on U-Boats you can call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: Automatic, Chronograph, Titanium, italy, limited editions, swiss, u-42, u-boat, valjoux

PANDORA Holiday Gift with Purchase - Dec 5th to 25th

Receive a free PANDORA holiday ornament (a 36$ CAD retail value) with your purchase of $150 or more of PANDORA jewellery. *
 
*Before taxes. Good while supplies last, limit one per customer.
 
Recevez un objet decorative des Fetes de PANDORA (d’une valeur de 36$ CAD) a l’achat de 150$ ou plus de bijoux PANDORA.*
 
*Avant taxes. Valable jusqu’a epuisement des stocks. Limite d’un article promotionnel par client.

Related tags: christmas, free, gift, holiday, pandora, promotion, special

New Bell & Ross WW1 Military and Heritage

Bell & Ross watches have long been a Montreal favourite. We were the first dealer in Canada for the brand, and had them before they released their iconic Instrument series. Nowadays the Instrument is BR’s flagship, but they also produce a series of interesting round designs in the Vintage series. The latest additions to the Vintage line are the WW1 wristwatches, a series inspired by very early military watches that were adapted from pocketwatches.

During the First World War, wrist-watch conversions became popular as a way for aviators and soldiers to easily tell the time at a glance without fumbling through pockets. Pocket watches had wire lugs soldered to the case to allow them to be worn on a leather belt. These early conversions were big (usually between 40 and 50mm) and had a top-heavy look due to their narrow straps. Bell & Ross recreates this look with a 45mm stainless steel case mounted on an 18mm strap, with traditional wire loop lugs. It makes the watch look even bigger than it is, and substantially bigger than the 41mm Vintage series.

The two examples we have here are the military-style models of the WW1 range, the Heritage and Military. Both feature matte finishes on the case as well as high-visibility dial and hands. On the Heritage the dial is matte finish, while the Military has a subtle sunburst metallic grain. The dial is clearly inspired by the Beobachtungsuhr (or B-Uhr) observation dials issued to German pilots during the Second World War – the B-Uhr is distinguished by its prominent minute markers, with hours relegated to a small inner disc. When navigating an aircraft, minutes and seconds are more important that hours, hence the emphasis. Hands are sword type with luminescent coatings. Legibility is excellent, well up to Instrument standards. And it’s very satisfying to see a nice long seconds hand sweeping across the expansive dial.

The case is 45mm with a thin bezel, making the watch look huge on the wrist. The crystal is a sapphire item with a slight dome. It definitely has the look of a pocket watch, with a rounded case design and a knurled crown. The lugs are hefty looking (compared to say, a Panerai Radiomir which uses a similar wire lug idea) and feature hidden springbar mounts - the original conversions had solid wires that required a split strap to be folded over them and riveted into place (or a one-piece strap looped through under the case). The Military has a matte finish steel case, while the Heritage has a grey PVD finish. It’s hard to photograph the colour of the Heritage case, it’s a sort of ghost-grey colour that is very distinctive.

Movements are tried-and-true ETA Swiss automatic calibres, 2892s in the case of these two models. You can expect reliable service from these proven movements, which are shared with the BR01-92 and BR03-92 models.

The Heritage has the signature tan calfskin strap (which, in our experience, ages to a nice caramel colour after a few months of wear) while the Military has a light brown distressed leather strap.

 The WW1 is an interesting addition to the Bell & Ross line, a large classic design that feels right at home in the military-aviation themed lineup. The Military and Heritage in particular are great designs, with their high visibility pilot dials, something that transforms the look of the watch when you compare it to the much dressier big date and power reserve models. If you want a big aviator’s watch, but want something other than the Instrument, the WW1 is a great choice. For more info on Bell & Ross feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: Heritage, automatic, aviation, basel 2011, bell ross, instrument, military, new, swiss

Jason on ABlogToRead - Vintage Omegas

This week I wrote a brief guide on collecting vintage Omega watches for Ariel Adams at ABlogToRead. Mr. Adams recently had the opportunity to visit the Omega museum at the Biel facility, and provided many excellent photos of some of the key pieces in their collection. I have a personal interest in Omegas made before the 1980s and have a small but growing collection of various models from the 1950s to 1980s, so I wrote this article to share my passion with budding collectors looking to get into Omega.

Collecting Vintage Omegas on ABlogToRead

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: Vintage, collecting, omega, seamaster, speedmaster, swiss

A.Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Timezone

When most people think of fine haute-horlogerie, they think of Switzerland. Rightly so, considering that Switzerland has some of the finest brands in the industry and the vast majority of modern watchmaking talent resides there. There is, however, an exception to this trend – in the Saxon countryside of Germany lies the city of Glashutte, a tiny town that has become the hub of German watchmaking. Here is where you will find the factory of A. Lange & Sohne, one of the finest timepiece manufactures located outside of Switzerland.

The company began in 1845, founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a talented watchsmith who learned his trade in Saxony. The area had a rich heritage of astronomical and horological production; over the decades several notable master craftsmen made their careers building precise instruments for observatories, an industry that required precision timekeepers to ensure accurate calculations. Prior to the emergence of clock and watchmaking, Glashutte had been a boomtown – it was the site of a silver mine that supported the area for some time, but when the lode was exhausted the area fell into poverty. Watch and clock making became a way to exploit the skilled metalworkers in the region, and a highly integrated industry developed in the isolated town.

Lange und Sohne became a well know provider of high quality pocketwatches up until the end of the Second World War. Their products were renowned for their exceptional quality and accuracy, with fine Saxon-style finishing throughout - traditionally gilt frosted finish ¾ plate movements with screwed-chaton jewelling and blued screws, as opposed to the Swiss style of fausses-cotes and perlage on rhodium plated brass bridges. In general Saxon finishing is utilitarian and understated when compared to the flourishes put on Swiss watches – the finishing is still very delicate, but not as flashy. The traditional German finishing is adapted to modern tastes by the modern Lange & Sohne; they still use German silver bridges and screwed chatons (gold bearings that hold the jewels in place with screws, rather than pressed in friction fit).

Lange produced watches for the German military during the Second World War, mainly oversized Fliegeruhrs and Beobachtungsuhrs for the Luftwaffe (including one watch in silver for a certain Mr. Goering). After the German defeat, Glashutte became a part of communist East Germany and all forms of traditional watchmaking was squashed under the regime. The factory was also heavily damaged by Allied bombing in 1945 and pre-war production was never resumed. A few unexceptional calibres and wristwatches were produced under the Lange name, but nothing that rivalled the original glory of the company. The watch industry in Germany was more or less dead under communist rule.

The modern A. Lange & Sohne emerged in 1990 after the fall of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of the East German regime. Walter Lange, the great grandson of Ferdinand A. Lange, wanted to resurrect the fine traditional craftsmanship that his family had practised for a hundred years. A new factory was built in Glashutte with an eye for near-total vertical integration – almost everything would be produced in-house without having to rely on external suppliers. They would also resurrect the Saxon style of finishing and engineering rather than apeing the Swiss to ensure that their product remained distinct. Their products would only be produced in gold and platinum; legend has it that for a few years they produced stainless steel watches, not for sale, but as loaner timepieces while clients were having their watches serviced! In 1994 the first collection of wristwatches was released, including the now-famous Lange 1 with its characteristic double-digit big date display and asymmetrical dial. Since then the Lange 1 has become their signature timepiece and has been the basis of numerous variations and added complications, including what we have here – the Timezone.

The Timezone takes the distinctive layout of the Lange 1 and adds the useful complication of a secondary timezone with quick-set adjustment linked to a rotating inner bezel. The Lange 1 layout is normally hours and minutes in the upper left, big date in the upper right, power reserve at 3 o’clock, and small-seconds at 5 o’clock. On the Timezone, the sub-seconds are moved into the main time dial, and the small seconds dial is turned into a second time display. Two day-night indicators are added adjacent to each time display. The power reserve and big date are in the same spots. On the outer edge of the dial is a rotating internal bezel that lists the major cities of the world, giving the watch the look of a world timer (purists should note it is not a true worldtimer, but instead a dual-time watch with region indication). A small arrow next to the secondary time indicates which city is being displayed on the bezel.

The case is an 18k rose gold affair, with quick-set pushers on the left side for the big date (at top) and the timezone (the bottom). The diameter is a substantial 42mm, one of the largest watches Lange produces – the original Lange 1 was 38.5mm, and most Langes are between 37 and 40mm. The extra real estate is occupied by the internal bezel, so the proportions are retained without making it look like they stuck the same movement in a bigger design. The caseback has a sapphire exhibition window to show off the magnificently finished movement. While it appears plain at first glance (the ¾ plate bridge hides most of the mechanism; Swiss designs have spoiled us by revealing every gear and lever through skeletal bridgework) this is a spectacular movement finished by hand to the highest order.

Lange is unique for their exclusive use of German silver for the movement bridges. Despite the name it contains no silver – it is a copper, nickel and zinc alloy. Traditional Swiss movements use brass with either a rhodium (silver) finish or gilt (gold) plating. Some haute-horlogerie brands (F.P. Journe) use 18k gold for their baseplates and bridges. German silver is a more rigid material and has better structural qualities, and does not need to be plated to prevent corrosion – the finish you see is the bare metal, which has a warm honeyed colour. Unfortunately German silver has an extremely delicate finish – any handling will show up. The only way around this is to assemble the movement and test it, then to take it apart again to clean it and touch up the finish, and then assemble once more. Thus the assembly time is double what it should be! It’s a testament to Lange attention to detail and uncompromising quality. They could rhodium plate the bridges and omit the second assembly phase, but then it wouldn’t really be the same. They are a small manufacture, not a mass-production facility; they pride themselves on taking the time to do things perfectly.

All the parts are impeccably polished and bevelled, each jewel in the main bridge is secured with a gold chaton, and everything is held together with perfectly heat-blued screws. It’s the sort of old-world craftsmanship that is rarely seen in modern watches. Not only that, but each balance cock is engraved by hand by a single technician. No two balances are the same, and each engraver has a distinctive style. Little flourishes like that is what sets Lange apart.

The movement is a manually wound calibre L031.1 and has a power reserve of 72 hours, the same as a standard Lange 1. Winding is buttery smooth and the quicksets function with a nice soft click (perhaps a bit too soft; I often found myself accidentally setting the date when I wanted to advance the timezone - I would be worried about accidentally bumping the sizeable pushers if I were wearing this daily). The extra complications are visible through the caseback; an additional set of gears and a bridge ride above the main bridge of the movement. The added bridge is engraved just like the balance cock, which is to say spectacularly. Considering the Timezone is a significant premium over the standard model, it’s the least they can do.

The Timezone is not inexpensive. Retail price is 45600$ CAD. We are offering this example in lightly used condition for 29500$. But for that price you are getting something that goes toe-to-toe with the best from Switzerland; there are many who would say that Lange is better than Patek Philippe, and slightly less expensive (a Patek worldtimer is around 50-odd thousand, and commands a premium on the used market as well). Lange is certainly a brand for connoisseurs who want something different, a piece of haute-horlogerie that you won’t find on the wrist of every oil magnate and bank executive. While Patek is the go-to brand for the truly wealthy, Lange is the choice for distinguished collectors who appreciate superb quality and finishing but don’t want to play the brand-name-game.

To book an appointment to view the Lange 1 Timezone please call us at 514 845 8878, or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 18k gold, a. lange sohne, german, glashutte, gmt, haute horlogerie, lange, timezone, worldtimer

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date

In the annals of watchmaking history, Jaeger LeCoultre is one of the powerhouse manufactures that has enjoyed steady success for over a century by producing top-tier timepieces and distinctive products that have led the market in quality and style. Today JLC is a true manufacture, producing all of its components in-house and finishing its watches to the highest level while maintaining competitive pricing. Quality and value have long been the tenets of JLC; they are also known for their innovative models that have become icons of classic design, such as the Polaris, Memovox, Atmos, and the famous Reverso.

Jaeger LeCoultre began as LeCoultre, the creation of Swiss visionary Antoine LeCoultre who founded a watchmaking workshop in Le Sentier in 1833. Until the early 20^th century they produced high-quality movements and ebauches for other brands, offering a huge catalogue ranging from basic timekeepers to extremely complicated calibres. LeCoultre also innovated in the production of high-precision equipment, being the first to design a device capable of measuring tolerances to the micron – in 1844! As such LeCoultre became a manufacture of the highest precision, pioneering the use of interchangeable parts in high-quality calibres.

In 1903 Jaeger came into the picture – French watchmaker Edmond Jaeger to be precise. He formed a partnership with Jacques-David LeCoultre, grandson of Antoine, to produce the thinnest pocketwatch movements in the world and their creations remain record holders to this day (the basic calibre was 1.38mm thick, while a minute repeater was all of 3.5mm). Jaeger was a pioneer in aviation and his company produced aircraft (and later automobile) instruments and clocks for many decades, but after his successful collaboration with LeCoultre in the 1900s Edmond formed a partnership that led to the creation of the Jaeger LeCoultre watch brand. After decades of producing movements for other companies, they were finally making watches of their own design. (Something to note – in the US market watches were branded LeCoultre until 1985, while in the rest of the world they showed Jaeger LeCoutre on the dial. Automotive instruments were produced under the Jaeger name until the 1990s)

One of the most famous JLC designs, and still one of their top sellers, is the art-deco classic – the Reverso. In 1931 a group of British officers in India challenged LeCoultre to create a watch that would be able to withstand the rigors of playing polo, while being able to transition to a formal affair with ease. A durable yet elegant watch was needed to solve the problem of watch crystals being smashed during play. The solution was ingenious – a watch that could be flipped over on the wrist without being removed, with a solid caseback opposite the dial to protect against damage. It still had to be elegant and well integrated; the final design is a true design classic, with a perfectly proportioned rectangular shape and integrated lugs and architectural details that hide the mechanism. When closed it isn’t apparent that this is a watch that can transform, and the hidden back allows for endless personalization ranging from simple engravings to hand-painted enamel artworks. The design was so popular that it remained in production until the 1970s, and was re-introduced to much acclaim in the 1990s. It remains one of JLC’s signature watches.

Nowadays most people wouldn’t be crazy enough to wear an expensive mechanical watch when playing sports (though some still do, right Mr. Nadal?). As a result the Reverso has become more of a dressy art-deco watch than something anyone would dare wear playing polo. This means that the reverse side has become the showcase for various extra functions, another dial, or in the case of this Grande Date an exhibition window on the movement. Having an exhibition case allows you to wear the watch with the movement showing – how many times have you admired a fine calibre and wished you could wear the watch upside down to gaze upon the mechanical beauty? Now you can!

Like all Jaegers, the Reverso Grande Date features an in-house movement that is quite impressive considering the relatively modest price. It has twin spring barrels for a full 8-day power reserve, and it features power reserve and big-date complications on the dial side, made all the more remarkable considering the modest size of the case (29 by 46 mm). The movement is beautifully finished, with cotes-de-geneve striping and fine polishing throughout. JLC prides itself on manufacturing and designing all their movement entirely in-house, and this calibre 875 is a beauty. It winds buttery smooth too. It is also stringently tested; JLC doesn’t submit their watches for COSC chronometer trials, instead performing a 6 week (or 1000 hour) torture test on each watch that includes exposure to shocks, water, multiple positions, multiple temperatures, and of course accuracy testing. In many ways it is stricter than the traditional COSC accuracy tests.

While the 29mm width doesn’t sound like much, the Grande Date is a sizeable watch. Lug to lug it is 46.5mm, so it has a lot of wrist presence. The elongated shape disguises how big it actually is – it is in fact part of the Grande Taille collection, which is larger than the classic Reverso (but smaller than the Squadra sport models). With hefty lugs and a thick case, it is a watch that straddles the line between imposing and elegant - which is right in line with the art-deco styling, an aesthetic that often equal parts industrial, architectural, and finesse. Those signature horizontal lines that hide the opening of the Reverso case and blend it into the lugs are pure art-deco, the shape and detail of the case would look right at home in the Chrysler Building or in a Humphrey Bogart flick.

The Grande Date is still available from JLC, but not in stainless steel. This version has been discontinued in favour of a gold model. That means that this watch represents good value for such fine watchmaking, moreso when you consider the current replacement retails for double the price. The Reverso is a design classic from a storied brand that offers great style and fine quality. Everyone needs as least one square watch in his or her collection, and for many the Reverso is the only choice. It’s the only watch that has a purpose to its shape, and its party trick still delights watch lovers after 80 years. For more information on our Reverso Grande Date or any other watches we have in stock, feel free to call me at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 8 days, big date, classic, dress watch, jaeger, jlc, manual wind, power reserve, reverso

Watches in Depth - Minute Repeaters

In the realm of complications there are certain functions that surpass all others in terms of complexity. You have the tourbillon, the most common superfluous complication out there. You have the perpetual calendar, the mechanical calculator that computes the leap year cycle. You can have a myriad of lesser complications combined together. But for the true watch lover, nothing beats the king of haute-horlogerie – the mighty repeater complication, one of the most difficult mechanisms to execute and one of the single most expensive complications to purchase.

What is a repeater? It’s a watch that chimes the time, either passively without the wearer’s intervention (as in a sonnerie) or by activating a mechanism through a slide or button (the repeater). Sounds simple enough. But to create a mechanical chime that can compute the current hours and minutes, and ring them clearly and beautifully, is a staggeringly difficult task. As a result repeaters and sonneries can be some of the most expensive timekeeping devices you can buy and strap to your wrist.

Repeaters began as a way of checking the time in the dark, in the days long before the introduction of luminescent dials. The watch “repeats” the time back to the wearer with a series of chimes struck on internal gongs. Normally there are two gongs: one low pitch, one high pitch. Hours are indicated by a low tone, quarter hours by a high tone and low tone alternating, and minutes by a high tone. So, if the watch struck “tong tong tong, ting-tong, ting ting ting” it would be 3 hours, 1 quarter (15 minutes) and three minutes past the quarter – 3.18. Repeaters have existed for centuries, developed in watch format in the late 1600s by two inventors simultaneously (Englishmen Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare).

That pattern of indicating hours, quarters and minutes is the minute-repeater. It can chime to within the minute indicated on the dial. A five-minute-repeater can chime to the nearest 5-minute interval, while a quarter-repeater will only chime the hours and quarters. A half-quarter repeater will indicate the halfway point between each quarter (7 ½ minutes). A simple repeater will chime only the hours. Nowadays the most common (if you can call it such) repeater is the minute repeater; it is also the most difficult to execute.

The sonnerie (sometimes called a “clock watch”) is a function that will be familiar to anyone who has had a grandfather clock – it passively chimes the quarter hours (15 minutes) and the hours. You may have the Westminster chime added as well (think Big Ben). A grand sonnerie will chime the hours followed by the quarters at each quarter, so at 4.15 it will strike four low tones followed by one ting-tong for the quarter. The hour is indicated at each quarter. A petite sonnerie strikes the hours at the top of the hour only, with only the dual tone at the quarters. In most modern sonnerie watches there will be a selector slide that will allow the wearer to select grand, petite, or no sonnerie. The most complicated repeater mechanism will combine a minute repeater with a sonnerie. Sonneries are particularly complex because they require a constant power supply from the movement to function, either drawing from a second mainspring or feeding off the mainspring of the movement. A repeater normally has a spring mechanism integrated into the activating slide so it doesn’t draw any extra power.

So how does this complication function? This is where the beauty and complexity of the repeater shows through. First, the watch needs to be able to determine the current exact time to correctly strike what is indicated on the dial. To accomplish this there is a delicate series of star and snail-armed gears connected to the pinions of the hour and minute hands under the dial. Each tooth represents either an hour, quarter or minute; a set of levers follows the wheels as they turn and constantly indicate the current time. These act upon a series of levers that control the striking mechanism. This striking “computer” has several snail-shell shaped gears that determine the number of strikes and what gong (high or low) to use.

When the slide on the side of the case is pushed a tiny spring is wound. This spring has just enough tension to run the repeater once, each push of the slide winds it up again. There is a small blocker attached to the slide called an all-or-nothing piece that will only allow the repeater to start if the slide is fully pushed (a lazy push will not activate it at all, this corrected a problem with early models that wouldn’t chime the complete repetition if the slide was half-heartedly moved). The spring activates the mechanism, which determines the current time based on the position of the levers and snail gears and then translates that into a series of strikes from two hammers. The chime is a pair of hammers that strike a round wire gong that runs the perimeter of the case around the movement.

Patek Philippe Reference 2419 Minute Repeater from HODINKEE on Vimeo.

(Courtesy of Hodinkee.com, a vintage Patek Philippe Minute Repeater)

Creating a clear and loud chime is a challenge for any watchmaker designing a repeater. The delicacy of the parts, the lack of space, and the minimal power available to move the hammers all conspire against having a prominent chime. Additionally the material of the case has a significant effect on the sound. Because it is such an expensive complication, many minute repeaters are cased in gold or platinum. However, because of the density of these precious metals, the sound is deadened by the case. The best sounding repeaters are traditionally steel cased, and many watchmakers choose to use steel for this reason. Hence you can see a repeating watch going for several hundred thousand dollars with a stainless steel case. Some newer designs are making use of the good acoustic properties of sapphire crystal by attaching the gongs directly to the front crystal of the watch, while other companies (like Hublot, for example) are using high tech composite materials that enhance the acoustics of the chime. Even then, the loudest and clearest minute repeaters are still quite unobtrusive, softly chiming the time without being annoyingly loud. Think something along the lines of a wind-up music box and you have a good idea of what they sound like.

Minute repeaters and sonneries, while incredibly intricate on their own, are often combined with other haute-complications to create spectacular watches of staggering complexity. The traditional “triple-complication” is a minute repeater with a chronograph and perpetual calendar, this having been a popular combination in pocket watches for over a hundred years. Today some of the most complex watches in existence have minute repeater mechanisms on top of tourbillons, perpetual calendars, split-seconds chronographs, celestial displays, equations of time… you name it, and it’s been combined into a single design. Because it is a subtle complication, only indicated from the outside by the presence of a slide on the side of the case, the minute repeater is a classical watch complication for true aficionados who are willing to spend obscene amounts of money for pure complexity without any flashiness (or the complication-fad-du-jour). Anyone can spot a tourbillon when they are spinning around on the dial, but a minute repeater is a rare and low-key beast that will only reveal itself when you activate it and let loose a string of delicate chimes.

Minute repeaters are rarefied territory, even for high complications. While most major companies will produce at least one tourbillon model, only the top watchmaking houses are capable of producing minute repeaters and sonneries. As such they are some of the most expensive wrist (and pocket) watches ever crafted. Handling a minute repeater is a once in a lifetime experience. 

Related tags: complication, faq, haute horlogerie, minute repeater, sonnerie, swiss, watches in depth

New U-Boat U-51 46mm Limited Edition

In the realm of big watches, U-Boat is king. Starting around 10 years ago, U-Boat was the first company to produce huge watches in 50mm plus diameters. At the time big watches were just beginning to come into vogue, since then big watches have become the norm and U-Boat has flourished. However, there are some folks (myself included) who just don’t have the wrist size to pull off a massive watch. Up until now there have been the 45mm Classico and Flightdeck models for people who want a big watch without going into the 50mms, but the limited edition pieces were always in the bigger size range. This year U-Boat has addressed this by introducing several new series of 46-47mm limited editions, including the U-1001, U-42, and the subject of today’s blog, the U-51.

The U-51 series began as a very limited 99 piece edition featuring a top-tier rattrapante chronograph movement. Featuring a 51mm stainless steel case with hidden strap lugs, the U-51 had a completely unique design that retained the signature U-Boat size and crown cap, but was otherwise distinct from the rest of the range. Last year the line was expanded with a second edition of 99 examples with a standard chronograph movement (without the complicated rattrapante mechanism), still featuring the 51mm case. This year the U-51 gets downscaled to 46mm, in an edition of 300 pieces.

Like the previous models, the U-51 46mm retains the distinctive case design with features three pieces (bezel, body and caseback) held together with screwed pins running around the perimeter of the case. It creates a great industrial look that really stands apart, and offers lots of visual detail by alternating between high polish, brushed, and matte finished steel. The 46mm adds a set of traditional strap lugs to keep it from looking too small on the wrist. Additionally the sapphire crystal is domed to distinguish the 46 from its bigger brothers. The U-51 has always had an interesting look on the wrist – it is extremely thick, giving it a hockey-puck-on-a-strap look. The addition of regular lugs instead of hidden items lessens the effect slightly, but this is still a hefty timepiece that is sure to draw attention. You won’t forget you are wearing this watch, it is still a heavy piece despite the smaller size.

A highly decorated automatic movement is visible through the exhibition caseback. The movement is a top-grade Valjoux automatic calibre, a signature of U-Boat’s limited editions that distinguishes them from the standard models. You can expect reliable and accurate performance from the tried-n-true calibre. As per U-Boat tradition the crown and pushers are on the left side to provide more comfort (many assume it is a left-handed watch, but in fact the reversed controls are to prevent the large hardware from digging into the back of your hand). The U-51 has large, easy to manipulate pushers that follow the usual reversed layout – the bottom pusher starts and stops while the top resets.

The dial is a highlight of the design and is subtly different from the previous models. The numerals are stencil-style Arabic in white luminescent paint, with broad luminescent baton hands to match. Legibility is good, and the asymmetrical sizing of the chronograph subdials lends some interest to the dial. The seconds subdial is huge, which makes reading the running seconds easy. The central (chronograph sweep) seconds hand is coloured a dark hunter green that matches some green details on the rest of the dial. A close inspection will reveal that the dial is a three-dimensional item, with sandwich cutaways around the subdials. U-Boat has always had distinctive dials and this watch is no exception.

The U-51 46 comes on a beautiful rallye-style alligator strap in a black satin finish. Like all U-Boat straps it is hand-crafted in Italy and superbly finished with thick grain leather and matching stitching. The texture is beautiful, with a pronounced alligator grain and a semi-gloss jet black finish. Oftentimes a good watch can be let down by a poor quality band, but U-Boat always pairs their timepieces with beautiful straps. Leave it to the Italians to give their watches a nice classy pair of shoes.

The U-51 46mm is an eye catching and completely unique piece from U-Boat that continues the tradition of bold limited editions – in a  more modest size. It may be a few mms smaller than the “original” U-51, but the 46 still packs a lot of visual punch and is a standout watch that will not go unnoticed. Wallflowers need not apply, this a serious watch that you wear if you want to get noticed; beneath that bold styling you will find some fine detailing and finishing, so this an imposing watch that has both dominating presence and quality. All in a smaller, easier to wear package. For information on U-Boats or any other watches we carry here at Matt Baily’s, give me a call at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 46mm, Chronograph, Flightdeck, U-Boat, classico, italy, limited edition, swiss, u-1001, u-42, u-51, valjoux