Fantastic reading material for Watch Aficionados: Wristwatch Annual 2010
by Marco Gagliano on February 12, 2010
tagged as: reviews books
Every year, many watch lovers anticipate the publication of the Wristwatch Annual. This catalogue of the most important luxury watch brands is a sort of holy scripture for collectors, enthusiasts, and watch professionals alike. Each of the roughly 130 companies represented showcase their most important and newest models. Every watch displays important details such as case size, movement calibre and specifications, available variations, and a good estimate of the watch's USD retail price. The 2010 Wrist Watch Annual continues the tradition with some added features and an immensely handy and ever-growing illustrated glossary.
The main attraction to the WWA is the wealth of details presented. The information provided about movements is a good example. When looking at literature provided by the watch manufacturers - and sometimes even the press - the specifications are somewhat limited. Lets take Alpina for instance, as they have various sources for their high-end, Swiss movements. When you look at their site or catalogue, you will find the Alpina calibre demarcation for each watch's movement. The Avalanche Extreme Diver runs on the AL-525, the Avalanche Extreme Chronograph on the AL-850, and the Manufacture Regulator on the AL-950. What the calibres do not tell you is what they were before being modified to Alpina specifications. Using the WWA one can find that the AL-525 is a modified Sellita SW200 (a beautiful all-Swiss made movement very similar to ETA's 2824-2), the AL-850 is based on ETA's 2894 (same as the Bell & Ross BR-01 94s), and the AL-950 - of course - is a manufacture calibre. It was conceived and manufactured entirely at Alpina's Geneva factory. Like many, you may never have heard of Sellita. If that is the case, you can flip to the section of the WWA dedicated to movement manufacturers, where you can learn all about it. The Wrist Watch Annual strives to be as complete as possible within the limits of its 432 pages.
As I already mentioned, I think the glossary is one of the greatest features of the Wristwatch Annual thanks to its completeness and illustrated examples of the terms. It consists of nine full pages and explains 54 terms that are often used, but not explained, by the manufacturers. An other great feature in the WWA is the "Spotlight on Independent" section that reviews work done by Independent watchmakers during the last year. Here you can always find some of the weirdest, most fascinating, and sometimes controversial watches. Even the advertising within the book's pages is interesting, as companies showcase some of their coolest products and even contribute articles concerning aspects of the watch world that are important to them.
Other than eye-candy, the advertising has a secondary positive effect. It keeps the price of this indispensable book low enough to make its purchase a "no-brainer" decision. This along with the abundance of information found between its covers explains why the Wristwatch Annual is such a popular item at the store; and why it has become a tradition for many watch enthusiasts.
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Bell & Ross BR Minuteur Tourbillon Pink Gold Limited Edition
by Marco Gagliano on February 9, 2010
tagged as: reviews tourbillon bell & ross
Once a masterpiece is conceived in the mind of the artist, it takes time and care to completed it. It must satisfy the stringent demands and expectations of collectors. It took most of a year since Bell & Ross unveiled their Minuteur models for the first one to be available to the public, but for thirty lucky collectors it will be worth the wait.
One of the most striking aspects of the Bell & Ross Minuteur Tourbillon is that it is immediately recognizable as a BR "Instrument," but it is like no other watch in the collection. The case is rectangular rather then square and measures 50mm in diameter and 44mm in height. The size of the case, the strong, bold shape of the bezel and the weight of solid 18 karat rose gold make for a seriously impressive instrument. The case is equipped with a screw-locking crown and is awarded a water resistance rating of 100 meters. This means that one could take advantage of the BR rubber strap in the water where rubber straps feel most at home. This structural strength also represents Bell & Ross' dedication to making professional-quality watches.
The insides of the Minuteur Tourbillon Pink Gold are equally impressive as its golden outer shell. The manual winding, exclusive movement is conceived and manufactured with BNB Concept SA. This highly specialized, Swiss atelier has provide the world with some of the most exciting complicated movements of recent years. The Minuteur's movement packs a power reserve of 72 hours and is decorated with solid rose gold bridges and plates. When looking through the watch's exhibition case, the golden parts of the mechanism are proudly displayed. The sophisticated movement offers several complications including the flying one-minute tourbillon, flyback chronograph, and power reserve display.
The complications of the Minuteur Tourbillon come together on the watch's dial. The first thing that the dial does is to meld the beauty and sophistication of rose gold with the functional and modern nature of the timepiece. This is achieved using carbon fiber. The sporty material is framed by rose gold and gold hour markers and hands are applied. The beauty of the flying tourbillon is accentuated by the used of rose gold for the its carousel. The dial also gives the watch its name as the chronograph minute counter is specially configured to read the time as a decimal value. For professionals that can afford the pink gold Minuteur tourbillon, every tenth of an hour counts.
The BR Minuteur Tourbillon Pink Goldis another example of how Bell & Ross have become masters of the balancing act. It is a sporty, water resistant watch, built with numerous sophisticated components on both the inside and outside. It also echoes the company's dedication to providing watches fit for exacting professionals of all vocations.
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All-Black Watch Models of 2009 or Lets Not Tell Time Part II
by Marco Gagliano on February 6, 2010
tagged as: 2009 black watch watches
All-Black Watch Models of 2009 or Lets Not Tell Time Part II
Nearing the end of 2008, we posted a blog entry named Let's Not Tell Time!, where Dino discussed several all-black timepieces of that time. Here we present a few of the more notable all-black watches from 2009.
Very few brands where producing all-black, no-contrast watches up to about three years ago. When some of these pieces, including the Bell & Ross BR Phantom, made a big impact on the watch industry, all-black became a permanent part of many watch collections.
Alpina Avalanche Extreme Diver
The Alpina Avalanche Extreme Diver incorporates many great features, quality Swiss automatic movement, strong, rugged case, a great luxury to price ratio, and a unique attractive style. Last year, Alpina added several variations to this collection adorned with different colour dials including one with black photo-luminescent markers. With a water resistance rating of 1000m the Diver reflects the darkness of the deep sea where it is most at home.
Bell & Ross Airborne and BR-S Phantoms
Bell & Ross unveiled several all-black watches last year. One of these was amongst the most talked about watch at the 2009 Baselworld fair. The limited edition Airborne is decorated with black, photo-luminescent skull and bones, which is a tribute to the courage and philosophy of airborne paratroopers.
While the all-black style is inspired by the military need for stealth, the BR-S Ceramic Phantoms take advantage purely of its sleek style. Bell & Ross also opened a new chapter in their their monochromatic book with an all-white version of the BRS-Ceramic.
I am not sure if it is considered cheating or not that the Corum Ti-Bridge Black does not even have a dial, but it is an all-black watch nonetheless. The titanium plates of the Ti-Bridge movement are treated with black PVD process and are all the dial this modern elegant watch needs. On the more traditional side of the coin we find the Corums Admiral's Cup Black Challenge 44. The rubber strap, polygonal 44mm case, dial, and photo-luminescent hour markers are all black. The only contrast is created by the grey nautical pennants. Italo Fontana embraced the all-black style years before the look became popularized with some obscure models such as the Eclipse. In 2009 U-Boat introduced the Classico Chronograph Titanium, which is reminiscent of a modern, high-tech weapon. All-black watches are beautiful as much as they are cool. They are stealthy as much as they are conspicuous. Their popularity is confirmed and they have become a permanent part of the horological landscape.
Corum
Corum Black Ti-Bridge and Admiral's Cup Black Challenge 44U-Boat Classico Titanium Chronograph
Alpina Driver with Black Markers AL-525LFB5FBAEV6 and U-Boat Classico CAB Titanium
Alpina Official Timekeeper 12 Hours of Sebring 2010 Limited Edition
by Marco Gagliano on February 2, 2010
tagged as: reviews limited editions alpina watches
Luxury, Beauty, Exclusivity of Exotic Sports Cars for Your Wrist
Now in its second year of collaboration with the exciting endurance race, Alpina is celebrating this year's event with a new, limited edition, chronograph watch. The Official Timekeeper 12 Hours of Sebring 2010 commemorates the 58th anniversary of the race, which attracts over 150 000 spectators every year and kicks off the American Le Mans Series (ALMS) season. The decisively sporty allure of this new limited edition of 158 pieces will appeal to motor-racing fans thanks to its themed styling and specifically selected features.
The Official Timekeeper is quite different from the other models in the Alpina collection thanks to its unique case and gmt function. The complications offered by the automatic movement are chosen specifically to relate to racing. A second timezone is calculated on a 24 hour dial reflecting the international character of the sport and the indispensable chronograph function is conveniently calibrated to measure time in twelve hour cycles. While the second feature is quite standard for automatic chronographs, this does not detract from the fact that the twelve hour register at six o'clock is perfectly matched to the race format of the Sebring circuit. The 30-minute counter at twelve o'clock offers better legibility than a more crowded 60-minute counter. The spectator - or professional driver - wearing the Alpina 12 Hours of Sebring watch will have a clear and accurate marking of the race's progress.
As always Alpina, keeps up with the demand for large size watches. The black PVD coated stainless steel case is 47 mm in diameter with a relatively low profile and comfortable ergonomic design. The large crown, consisting of rubber, steel, and enamel is screw-locking to add to the resilience of the timepiece. It suits the complexity and sportiness of the other case elements. The back of the case, also securely screw sealed, is fitted with a sapphire window to exhibit the automatic movement and its black, decorated rotor.
In its young past, Alpina has delighted their fans with numerous cool straps. The new strap fitted onto the Official Timekeeper 12 Hours of Sebring continues this tradition. Supple, grained leather is the base for vinyl sheathing that acts both to protect and beautify the strap. The red stitching adds contrast to the case, and mirrors other red accents present on the dial.
Aside from the high quality movement and case, what really makes the watch what it is is the many stylistic details incorporated all over the watch. The rotating, all-black bezel with its surprisingly photo-luminescent markings and the integrated, aerodynamic look of the chronograph pushers are two examples, but small, defining details are peppered all over.
The 2010 Alpina Official Timekeeper 12 Hours of Sebring offers the style of a modern, exotic, sport car's dashboard, with its functional features and quality adding to this likeness. As only 158 of these watches will be produced, the exclusivity factor is also taken care of.
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A Review of SIHH 2010 - Several Watches That Stood Out
by Marco Gagliano on January 28, 2010
tagged as: watches sihh
Although none of the companies that Matt Baily Watches carries are represented at the private Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, our passion for fine watches runs deep. Furthermore, chances are good that some of the models I will be mentioning in this post will eventually end up in our outstanding collection of certified pre-owned watches, which includes desirable pieces by Panerai, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, and more.
SIHH 2010
Since the economic slow-down took hold of the luxury market at the end of 2008, the novelties have become somewhat less extravagant and less numerous. This does not deter watch manufacturers from doing their best to astonish us with fantastic horological works. We can always find some great timepieces to talk about at important trade fairs such as the SIHH.
The Good
Since Montblanc decided to enter the world of ultra-high end, complicated timepieces, they have enlisted the talents of some world-leading watchmakers to produce some amazing models. This year the company released the Metamorphosis, a mechanical masterpiece that is able to transform its dial from a perpetual calendar to a chronograph. This mechanical Transformers-like change may come off as modern and new, but to me it is an homage to the great mechanical feats of the past, like the automatons built by Jaquet Droz in the 18th century. The best way to admire this mechanisms from home is to watch the company's YouTube video that I embedded below. It may be a little cheesy, but it is worth watching.
Of Course, IWC can always be counted on to present some interesting complicated watches, and this year they introduced one model that I found particularly beautiful. This watch is the new Portuguese Tourbillon Handwound, which plays on the fantastic simple elegance that the Portuguese watches are known for. For lovers of sporty watches, Audemars Piguet presented a 42mm diver version of their Royal Oak Offshore, which was a simple and functional juxtaposition to the ever-more intricate and colourful designs of their limited edition Offshore.
The IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Handwound
The Bad-Ass
In recent years many of the major innovations have been related to the use of alternative materials. Ten to fifteen years ago titanium was considered exotic, but now there are dozens of futuristic materials to choose from. Tantalum, Ceramics, Tungsten Carbide, compressed carbon fiber are all examples, and more are surfacing every year. These materials may offer benefits such as light-weight or incredible resistance to shock and heat, but in the end the real purpose is to produce cool, modern, and rare watches. In other words: bad-ass.
Cartier is not a brand that I would figure would be in this category, but they have proved themselves worthy with the new ID One Concept watch based on the Ballon Blue. Clear carbon crystal is used on the movement, which is coated with extremely hard, black, diamond-like coating. The case is made of niobium-titanium, which I will not pretend to know anything about at this time, but seems to display a smoky grey colour for a nice overall look.
AP Offshore Diver and the Cartier ID One Concept
While not as outspoken on the subject as Hublot, Panerai has been experimenting with alternative materials for a long time. This year they presented a watch made of an exclusive dark brown composite material. The Radiomir Composite Marina Militare 8-Day uses a type of extremely hard ceramic, whose dark brown colour blends well with the vintage style of the Radiomir case and strap.
Two of Panerai' models presented at the SIHH
The Ugly
It was only a matter of time until they revived this cult classic. At the SIHH 2010 Panerai revealed a new limited edition piece replicating the style of the collectible Mare Nostrum. I'm guessing that in real life this watch is actually awesome. If you like large, military watches you will enjoy owning this monster. What I do not like about it are the same things that I do not like about the original. The flat bezel and the beady subsidiary dials. Besides, I had to put something in the "Ugly" section.
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Montblanc video featuring some extremely expensive, and rare timepieces, not to be confused with the watches in their regular collection.
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