New U-Boat U-51 46mm Limited Edition

In the realm of big watches, U-Boat is king. Starting around 10 years ago, U-Boat was the first company to produce huge watches in 50mm plus diameters. At the time big watches were just beginning to come into vogue, since then big watches have become the norm and U-Boat has flourished. However, there are some folks (myself included) who just don’t have the wrist size to pull off a massive watch. Up until now there have been the 45mm Classico and Flightdeck models for people who want a big watch without going into the 50mms, but the limited edition pieces were always in the bigger size range. This year U-Boat has addressed this by introducing several new series of 46-47mm limited editions, including the U-1001, U-42, and the subject of today’s blog, the U-51.

The U-51 series began as a very limited 99 piece edition featuring a top-tier rattrapante chronograph movement. Featuring a 51mm stainless steel case with hidden strap lugs, the U-51 had a completely unique design that retained the signature U-Boat size and crown cap, but was otherwise distinct from the rest of the range. Last year the line was expanded with a second edition of 99 examples with a standard chronograph movement (without the complicated rattrapante mechanism), still featuring the 51mm case. This year the U-51 gets downscaled to 46mm, in an edition of 300 pieces.

Like the previous models, the U-51 46mm retains the distinctive case design with features three pieces (bezel, body and caseback) held together with screwed pins running around the perimeter of the case. It creates a great industrial look that really stands apart, and offers lots of visual detail by alternating between high polish, brushed, and matte finished steel. The 46mm adds a set of traditional strap lugs to keep it from looking too small on the wrist. Additionally the sapphire crystal is domed to distinguish the 46 from its bigger brothers. The U-51 has always had an interesting look on the wrist – it is extremely thick, giving it a hockey-puck-on-a-strap look. The addition of regular lugs instead of hidden items lessens the effect slightly, but this is still a hefty timepiece that is sure to draw attention. You won’t forget you are wearing this watch, it is still a heavy piece despite the smaller size.

A highly decorated automatic movement is visible through the exhibition caseback. The movement is a top-grade Valjoux automatic calibre, a signature of U-Boat’s limited editions that distinguishes them from the standard models. You can expect reliable and accurate performance from the tried-n-true calibre. As per U-Boat tradition the crown and pushers are on the left side to provide more comfort (many assume it is a left-handed watch, but in fact the reversed controls are to prevent the large hardware from digging into the back of your hand). The U-51 has large, easy to manipulate pushers that follow the usual reversed layout – the bottom pusher starts and stops while the top resets.

The dial is a highlight of the design and is subtly different from the previous models. The numerals are stencil-style Arabic in white luminescent paint, with broad luminescent baton hands to match. Legibility is good, and the asymmetrical sizing of the chronograph subdials lends some interest to the dial. The seconds subdial is huge, which makes reading the running seconds easy. The central (chronograph sweep) seconds hand is coloured a dark hunter green that matches some green details on the rest of the dial. A close inspection will reveal that the dial is a three-dimensional item, with sandwich cutaways around the subdials. U-Boat has always had distinctive dials and this watch is no exception.

The U-51 46 comes on a beautiful rallye-style alligator strap in a black satin finish. Like all U-Boat straps it is hand-crafted in Italy and superbly finished with thick grain leather and matching stitching. The texture is beautiful, with a pronounced alligator grain and a semi-gloss jet black finish. Oftentimes a good watch can be let down by a poor quality band, but U-Boat always pairs their timepieces with beautiful straps. Leave it to the Italians to give their watches a nice classy pair of shoes.

The U-51 46mm is an eye catching and completely unique piece from U-Boat that continues the tradition of bold limited editions – in a  more modest size. It may be a few mms smaller than the “original” U-51, but the 46 still packs a lot of visual punch and is a standout watch that will not go unnoticed. Wallflowers need not apply, this a serious watch that you wear if you want to get noticed; beneath that bold styling you will find some fine detailing and finishing, so this an imposing watch that has both dominating presence and quality. All in a smaller, easier to wear package. For information on U-Boats or any other watches we carry here at Matt Baily’s, give me a call at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 46mm, Chronograph, Flightdeck, U-Boat, classico, italy, limited edition, swiss, u-1001, u-42, u-51, valjoux

Rolex Explorer I 214270

Rolex has many storied models that have become legendary among watch aficionados and collectors alike. There are the ubiquitous Submariner and Sea-Dweller models, and the pilot’s favourite GMT Masters, and of course the ever-popular Datejust and Day-Date models that have become symbols of classic style and distinction. But one model range is often forgotten in favour of its more glamourous siblings – the Explorer series. Reaching back over 50 years, the Explorer has long been an understated and rugged sport model that has a rich history that should put it into the pantheon of other Rolex sport models. As a result the Explorer remains a gentleman’s sport watch that is chosen by a distinguished few who eschew the glamour of its more famous stablemates in favour of a simple and functional timepiece that goes about its business quietly and reliably.

The Explorer had its origins in the 1950s as a more rugged version of a “bubbleback” wristwatch with a plain, easy to read dial. The first examples had stainless steel cases, silver dials with applied hour markers and dauphin (pointed) hands, and a proven automatic winding calibre with chronometer certification. Rolex supplied watches to several expeditions to conquer Mount Everest, beginning in the 1930s. In 1953 Sir Edmund Hillary and sherpa Tenzing Norgay finally conquered the summit, with a Rolex bubbleback on Tenzing’s wrist (Hillary was in fact wearing a British Smiths wristwatch, something that has been buried under decades of Rolex marketing). Subsequently a new model line was named Explorer (some confusion exists as to whether Explorer models were made before or after the 1953 expedition, regardless the expedition became the key selling point for the line after 1953), and it soon developed a distinctive style that has persisted to this day.  

The Explorer as we know it was introduced in 1953 as references 6298, 6150 and 6350. These references are the most easily recognizable as Explorers as they introduced the signature black dial with luminous hour markers – with Arabic 3-6-9 and block markers for the remainder. Hands were broad luminescent skeleton items. Legibility was key, and these early models set the standard. Most importantly, the name Explorer appeared on the dial and the series was officially born. The 6350/6150 was replaced by the 6610 in 1959 (with a new movement calibre and a different case) but retained the signature dial.

From 1963 onward the 6610 was replaced by the legendary 1016. This would prove to be one of Rolex’s longest-lived models, being in continuous production with minor updates until 1989. As before it had the black 3-6-9 dial and luminous hands (similar to Submariner hands), a 36mm stainless steel case, and a chronometer movement. The 1016 was replaced by the 14270 (now known as the Explorer I to distinguish it from the Explorer II GMT models) which retained the 36mm size but otherwise revamped the model with a new case, sapphire crystal, new movement, and a more modern dial with applied hour markers. An evolution of the ref 14270 was the 114270 from 2001-2010 that had an updated movement and heavier Oyster bracelet, but was cosmetically unchanged.

In 2010 Rolex announced the release of a bigger Explorer I, the ref 214270. For its entire production from 1953 to 2010, as sure as the sun rose, the Explorer I had a 36mm case. The 214270 broke tradition by upping the ante to 39mm. While this may not sound huge by modern standards, it is a sizeable watch with an expansive dial that dwarfs the outgoing 114270. With the classic Oyster bracelet it appears bigger on the wrist than the numbers suggest. Otherwise it is very similar in appearance to the outgoing model, offering the same dial and hands and the same case shape. The bracelet received an update, going to the heavy-link “super” Oyster with machined (vs. stamped) clasp. As always, Rolex allowed the model to gently evolve without making any drastic changes outside of a small bump in diameter. Rolex has never been known to make radical changes, at least not without upsetting their staunch fanbase.

The Explorer has always been a “tool” watch, a rugged and easy-to-read design that can be worn in any situation. It looks good with jeans and a t-shirt, or with a suit and tie. You can wear it while digging a ditch or at a dinner club. It’s functional without extraneous complications, just the time and nothing else. It’s long been one of my personal favourites as it is understated and doesn’t scream “look at me, I have a Rolex”, but offers all of the good qualities Rolex is known for (impeccable quality, excellent reliability and performance, good water resistance, and clean design). There are those of us who appreciate Rolex quality but don’t want to wear the Submariner. You won’t see Explorers on the wrists of every investment banker this side of Luxembourg, and for me that is a plus.

The Explorer is a model with a long history and many decades of consistent design and functionality, and the new 214270 continues the tradition admirably with subtle updates and a modern size. It keeps the tradition going without deviating much from the original design, something Rolex has become known for - almost all their models are evolutions of watches that have been in production for decades. The Explorer is a rugged and simple watch that goes about its business without fuss. It’s a great choice for someone who wants a usable everyday watch that can make the transition from hard use to dress with ease. If you are interested in our Explorer 214270 or any other preowned watch in our inventory feel free to call me at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: automatic, explorer, history, rolex, sport, swiss, watch

New Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono

Hamilton has long been a Matt Baily favourite here in Montreal, offering superb value for reasonable money. Hamiltons have elegant designs, are well built, nicely finished, and offer exceptional bang for buck compared to most Swiss brands. The latest Jazzmaster chronograph continues the tradition, while offering a subtle evolutionary upgrade of the existing series.

Outwardly the new Jazzmaster looks very similar to previous models, but inside there is a key upgrade that puts Hamilton ahead of the competition in this price category. The movement inside takes the Valjoux 7753 automatic chronograph architecture and tweaks it, exclusively for Hamilton, to offer better performance and much longer power reserve. The mainspring barrel is enlarged to stretch the power reserve from 40 odd hours to a full 60 hours, while the balance hairspring is modified to improve overall accuracy. The movement is finished to a higher degree than the previous Valjoux Elabore grade movements. Up until this point Hamilton has used off-the-shelf Valjoux calibres with minimal decoration, as you would expect in a automatic chronograph that retails for under 2000$. The new H31/H21 series movements increase the value proposition and sets Hamilton apart from the competition by offering an exclusive movement – without any significant increase in the price.

The Jazzmaster series offers classic designs that have a timeless quality about them, without being too stuffy or traditional like many Swiss dress watches. Where most companies mine the golden age of Swiss design in the 1950s and 60s for their dress models, Hamilton draws upon its rich American design heritage. The Jazzmaster is clearly inspired by 1960s American aesthetics, offering softer and more stylized details that still exude elegance. After all Hamilton was one of the premier American watch brands for most of the 20^th century, producing high quality wrist and pocket watches in Lancaster Pennsylvania. The company was purchased by the SSIH (which later became the Swatch Group) in 1971, and production was gradually moved to Switzerland. Today Hamilton is part of the Swatch group, which gives it a leg up on the competition – having access to the Swatch production chain means that Hamilton can make higher quality watches for significantly less money than most midrange Swiss watch brands. Who else offers a Swiss automatic chronograph for under 1500$? Or even under 2000$? Not many brands.

The Auto Chrono is an elegant 42mm design that displays the usual Hamilton traits – sculpted forms on the case, exhibition caseback, sturdy leather strap, clean and nicely detailed dial. It’s a no-nonsense design with fine detail, free from extraneous bobbles. The case is a perfect size for modern tastes, just the right size for a classic design without venturing into oversized territory. Being an automatic chronograph it has a thick case to accommodate the movement; it’s thick for such a classic design, and really makes the watch stand out on the wrist. The case uses the signature Jazzmaster design, with a mixture of brushed and polished elements and flowing lines, a nice departure from the typical boring straight-edge case designs you’ll find in this price category. It’s also quite a heavy case, with a solid heft and substantial feel to the crown and pushers.

The dial is on the Jazzmaster is a treat, featuring a brushed sunburst metallic finish and applied polished hour markers. It’s simple and beautiful, no complaints here. A black dial is also available. The chronograph is laid out in a bicompax fashion, with two registers at 3 and 9 o’clock. Only the running seconds and chronograph minutes are displayed, along with a small date window at 6 o’clock. The date features a handy quickset button on the side of the case rather than a two-position crown – while this might seem like a step backwards, it’s a smart move. Valjoux calibres have always had an issue where quicksetting the date at the wrong time can break the calendar mechanism (never, ever set the date between 9 c’clock and 3 o’clock). The solution is to only quickset when the hour is set near 6 o’clock. Unfortunately it’s quite common to unintentionally quickset the date at the wrong time when you don’t pull the crown out to the second position (Valjoux calibres tend to have stiff crown actions, so you may think you are setting the time but you are in fact still in date set mode). The button negates this error, as there is only one position on the crown.

The strap is a traditional sturdy Hamilton item with croc patterning and contrasting stitching on a tang buckle. On this example strap is a dark chocolate brown with tan stitching, a nice combination with the brilliant silver dial. An optional stainless steel link bracelet is also available.

The Jazzmaster Auto Chrono is typical Hamilton – good quality, great value, beautiful design, and understated elegance. It is not a flashy watch by any means, and that’s fine by me. There is something to be said about a clean, classic and elegant watch that perfectly channels the pure aesthetics of a bygone era without becoming a retro parody of itself. When it comes to value for money, Hamilton is the benchmark for classic Swiss watches (with an American heritage, of course). And now with the addition of the H31 calibre movements, the Jazzmaster series offers even more bang for buck. If you want a nice watch on a modest budget, Hamilton is hard to beat. If you have any questions about Hamilton watches or anything else we carry in store, feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: american, automatic, chronograph, classic, h31, hamilton, jazzmaster, swatch, swiss, valjoux

Bell & Ross Military Ceramic

Ceramic is the latest trend in watch technology, having been dormant for many years. The recent popularity of ceramic watches like the Chanel J12, not to mention the ceramic accents on high-tech watches from Hublot and Audemars Piguet, has created a demand for more and more ceramic designs from a variety of manufacturers. Entering the fray is Bell & Ross with a variety of new ceramic models, including the BR03-92 Military Ceramic (green, as we have here, and blue due later this year) and the upcoming BR01-92 Ceramic.

Bell & Ross has been producing the ceramic BRS ladies models for several years now (produced in close partnership with Chanel, who have a large stake in Bell & Ross), but up until this point they haven’t made any ceramic men’s watches. The BR03-92 Military Ceramic was the first, released last year to wide acclaim. The Military takes the classic Instrument style and updates it without drastically changing anything. The case is a two piece solid ceramic assembly, held together with PVD coated steel screws that are drilled through the four corners of the case. Dimensions are the same as the steel BR03, 42mm square. Oh, and it happens to be matte olive-drab green for a true military look. The colour is interesting; in photos it looks like a hunter green shade, but in person it is more of a khaki-green mix. It is tinted to look like US military olive drab, and it comes quite close to replicating the classic brown-green shade. Weight is very similar to the steel BR03, perhaps slightly lighter (which is to say it has a nice solid heft without being too heavy).

Up until this point all Instruments have been stainless steel or gold, with the odd titanium model (and also the cool as heck Carbon Fibre). The previous Military model had a black PVD coated steel case with green and white dial. The Carbon models (BR speak for PVD coated) are steel underneath the bead-blasted black finish. As anyone with a Carbon model BR knows, the traditional coating can be scratched off to reveal the steel underneath. That’s the big advantage of a ceramic case – it is highly scratch-resistant and uniformly coloured so it won’t show anything else underneath if it does scratch. The hardness of ceramic is akin to sapphire, which means it is very difficult to scratch and ding. However, it is a brittle material – dropping a ceramic watch on a hard surface may shatter the case.

Like the standard BR03 the Ceramic features an automatic Swiss ETA calibre movement with date. The dial is the classic black and white BR style with superluminova. And yes, the dial is black and white– the colour you see in the photos is in fact the crystal that is tinted a soft green colour to match the case. It gives the watch a subdued uniformity and cuts the contrast on the dial – without sacrificing any legibility. Like all BRs the Military has superb luminescence, making it one of the easiest watches in the world to read day or night.

 
Like all Instruments two straps are included. One is a bright green rubber item, the other a green nylon with PVD carbon buckle. Both really compliment the look of the green case nicely; the nylon is my personal favourite, as it offers a comfortable strap that can be washed and re-used when it starts to get a little funky.

The Military Ceramic is a very nice addition to the Instrument collection and a great upgrade to the line. More ceramic models will be forthcoming from Bell & Ross in the coming months, including a very cool Military Blue that will have a navy blue ceramic case and blue-tinted crystal. Also coming soon is the much-awaited BR01 Ceramic, starting with a dressy gloss black item with applied numeral dial. You can be sure that ceramic BRs are the Instrument of the future, a much appreciated upgrade to the ever-popular line. If you have any questions about Bell & Ross or any other brand we carry, feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers
Jason Cormier




 
 

Related tags: automatic, bell ross, br03, ceramic, eta, military, swiss

Watches in Depth - Calendars

Calendar watches are the single most common complication in modern watchmaking. They are so ubiquitous that most people wouldn’t even think they are a complication at all – we’ve become so accustomed to having a date on our watches we take it for granted. The irony in this complacency is that the calendar mechanism can be one of the most difficult and expensive complications to produce when you have to factor in leap years.

The basic mechanical calendar mechanism shows a date through an aperture or extra hand on the dial with no provision for automatically correcting based on the 30-31 day cycle. This is accomplished by having a toothed wheel driven off the base movement that rotates once every 24 hours. The wheel has one extra long tooth that sticks out and mates to a spring-loaded mechanism attached to the date wheel. When the long tooth engages the mechanism, the spring pawl snaps the date forward one notch – the calendar disk (what you see on the dial) having 31 notches. Early date complications had no provision for quick setting – to advance the date (or move it back) you had to roll the hour hands through a full 24 hours for each day.

The next step was to make the date quickset. Today we are accustomed to quicksets by pulling the crown out to the first notch and then rotating. Another older system that is still prevalent is the pushbutton quickset, where a tiny flush-mounted button is integrated into the side of the case. Omega used a different system for many decades where you gently popped the crown out to the second position to instantly advance the date one position (each pull advanced it once, no turning of the crown required). The problem with quicksets that persists to this day is the issue of damaging the mechanism by advancing the quickset during the wrong time. Because the long tooth gear slowly rotates (every 24 hours) the actual action of the date mechanism can take several hours. The danger zone is between 9 and 3 o’clock. If you quickset during that time you risk snapping the tooth off the gear. Nowadays many manufacturers design blocking mechanisms to prevent damage, but many movements still have issues (the ETA/Valjoux series of chronographs like the 7750 are the most commonly afflicted calibres). The solution is to NEVER quickset the date between 9 and 3 o’clock. Always put the hands to 6 o’clock before setting the date.

The next step in the calendar is the day-date and triple date display. A day-date is pretty self-explanatory – the day of the week is displayed along with the date. Essentially the complication of the date is doubled, with two display discs and two advancing mechanisms both engaging at the same time. The triple date takes the day-date and adds a month display that advances every 31 days. It doesn’t factor the 30-31 day cycle, however. The mechanism adds a series of gears that operate a month display that clicks over every 31 days; the principle is the same as a basic date, just with a much longer turnover time.

The next step up in complexity is the annual calendar. Similar to the triple date, the annual calendar factors in the 30-31 day cycle but doesn’t account for leap years. This mechanism has become a signature of Patek Philippe, who produce several annual calendar models. The user only has to correct it once a year, in February. With an annual calendar there is an extra mechanism that will instantly skip over the 31st to the 1st when needed, based on which month is being displayed. An annual calendar is considerably more complex than a simple triple date and commands a significant premium in the luxury market. But it has nothing on the king of calendars – the perpetual calendar.

The perpetual calendar occupies the top tier of complicated watchmaking, being part of the complication trinity that has been a staple of haute-horlogerie for decades – perpetual calendar, chronograph, and minute repeater (nowadays we would add tourbillons to this list as well). A “triple complication” is a watch that combines those three functions - being a chronograph with a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater (see the Patek Philippe 5208 at the bottom of the page for an example). The perpetual calendar is similar to the annual calendar but has the ability to calculate leap years, and often displays the year as well. Most perpetual calendars can accurately calculate the date for 100 years or more – IWC claims a 570-year interval between adjustments! Perpetual calendar mechanisms are extremely complicated, functioning like a mechanical computer with the “data” entered by the gears and levers. It has to calculate true-or-false equations to properly advance the date and month. A special star-shaped gear with a tiny sub-gear attached automatically calculates the leap year cycle as well as the 30-31 day cycle, with provisions for odd years (leap years follow a formula that isn’t necessarily every 4 years – years divisible by 4 are considered leap years except when they are also divisible by 100, but again are considered if they are divisible by 400 – got that?). The depth of the teeth on the gear determine the number of days in the month; when a 30, 28 or 29 day month comes up the gear gathers up a pawl that instantly skips the requisite number of days when the date changes (remember that the date display always has 31 days and the short months need to skip the extra days mechanically). There are "simple" perpetual calendars (simple is a misnomer, even the most basic perpetual mechanism is highly complicated) that only calculate the 4 year cycle, but most true perpetuals nowadays have corrections for odd years. Being so complicated, perpetual calendars are priced accordingly – the most “affordable” perpetual calendars run in the 30 000$ range, and can easily reach into the $100 000 plus range.

Many calendar watches will often have a moonphase complication, something that has become a signature for classic and traditional designs. A moonphase disc displays the cycles of the moon through a crescent-shaped aperture on the dial. The moon rotates slowly, a fraction of a millimetre per day. A full lunar cycle is precisely 29.53 days. This causes problems when designing a complicated movement where precision is demanded. Because of that fractional day the lunar cycle will be slightly off after long periods of running, as it is impossible to gear the display for a precise correction (the normal design is to double the teeth on the display gear and have two moons printed on the disk. 59 teeth on the disc comes close to accurate when you divide it into two cycle of the moonphase). Many solutions have arisen; some are complex mechanism like in an annual or perpetual calendar but dedicated to the moonphase display only, others are a simple mechanical corrector activated by the user (the Jaeger LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire features a button dedicated to correcting the moonphase with a single push). The vast majority of moonphase displays feature no correction, however, and need to be adjusted every few months by the wearer. Not exactly a deal breaker by any means, but when you are building haute-horlogerie pieces it's common to find solutions to very minor problems in the pursuit of ever-more complicated and precise mechanisms.

The calendar is one of the most common mechanical complications available today, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t one of the more complicated. While a simple date is a relatively straightforward addition, a complex calendar with corrections for each month, the moonphase, and leap years is one of the most difficult complications to execute. Don’t take the humble date display for granted: it is a complication like any other, even if it isn’t as glamourous as a tourbillon or a minute repeater. And unlike those fancy displays of haute-horlogerie, the calendar is probably the most useful complication you can have in a watch.

Related tags: annual calendar, calendar, date, day-date, faq, patek philippe, perpetual calendar, swiss, watches in depth

Frederique Constant Peking to Paris Chronograph

Frederique Constant (and sister company Alpina) have a history of interesting sports sponsorships. Alpina sponsors the 12 Hours of Sebring endurance race, while Frederique Constant has been a part of the Lake Geneva Regatta for classic boats (commemorated by the Runabout series), and has also worked with the Austin Healey owners club for the Healey line. The latest limited edition from Frederique follows that same idea of a classic watch for a classic event – the Peking to Paris chronograph commemorates the legendary automobile rally between China and France.

It seems appropriate that Alpina would sponsor Sebring (a modern sportscar and prototype series) while Frederique would cover a classic car event. Alpina produces modern, avant-garde, bold sport watches while FC makes perfectly elegant and classic dress designs. The Peking to Paris model is a great example of FCs retro-modern designs. It is simple and with a traditional layout and design, but the finishing and proportions are definitely modern (and all the better for it). It is clearly inspired by sports chronographs of the 1960s, recreating their tricompax subdial layouts and clean dials with modern levels of detailing. The dimensions are clearly inspired by today’s taste – a solid 43mm, the Peking is large enough to satisfy the modern client who wants something elegant but still big enough to stand out.

The dial of the Peking is flat-out gorgeous, particularly to vintage watch nuts like myself. It channels the spirit of classic chronographs very well, and this version in particular really stands out with its contrasting subdials (aka the Panda dial, which recalls the look of Rolex Paul Newman Daytona chronographs). The base of the dial is a silver grained metallic finish, while the subdials and chapter ring are a matte-black finish for easy legibility and reduced glare. Hands are classic dauphin style (tapering to sharp point) with luminescent inserts on the hour and minute hands. The hour markers are applied batons – look closely and you will see that they have a ball of lume at the outer edge and a stripe of lume running down their centres, a great little detail that increases night-time visibility. And that is what distinguishes Frederique Constant from most brands in this price range – their attention to detail. All FC models are exceptionally well finished and have beautifully designed dials, which gives them the appearance of a watch costing several thousand more.

Inside is a tried-and-true Valjoux automatic chronograph calibre (modified and called the FC396 in Frederique parlance). Laid out in a tricompax (subdials at 3-6-9) manner, it’s a typical Valjoux workhorse – reliable, accurate, and with good function. An exhibition back displays the decorated rotor, with the Peking to Paris logo engraved on the weight. Not much to say here except that you can expect reliable service from such a well-proven calibre, and that FC offers a Valjoux movement at a reasonable price point.

In the case of the Panda dial the strap is a croc-patterned leather item in a subtle charcoal grey shade with white stitching. It matches with the dial perfectly and is well integrated into the case with fitted ends. Other models feature straps tailored to the colour of the dial. The buckle is a nicely finished deployant that slides the excess length on the inside of the strap (ala Tag Heuer) – so you get a clean looking strap without any extra sticking out the side. 

All Peking to Paris models are limited editions of 1888 pieces, like the Runabout series that preceeded them. Each watch numbered and accompanied a certificate of authenticity. That means that you are getting a fair bit of exclusivity, considering how reasonably priced the series is. That’s the beauty of Frederique Constant as a brand – it is still relatively small and exclusive, without being overly expensive. It is a no-nonsense watch brand that produces good, solid designs for reasonable prices, and that is why it has become a Matt Baily favourite here in Montreal.

The Peking to Paris chronograph is another winner from Frederique Constant. Personally I think it is even nicer than the Runabout and Healey series that preceded it, and those were far from boring designs. If you want the looks of a classic chronograph but with modern proportions and function, not to mention limited-edition exclusivity and a reasonable price tag, the Peking is the watch to beat. If you have any questions about the Peking to Paris, Frederique Constant, or any other watches we have in store, please feel free to call me at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 7750, 7753, Automatic, Chronograph, Frederique constant, classic, dress watch, limited edition, peking, peking to paris, tricompax, valjoux, vintage

Watches in Depth - The Tourbillon

When it comes to complications, the tourbillon is the top tier of the watchmaker’s art. It is one of the most difficult complications to execute, one of the most expensive to buy, and one of the most superfluous in function. Tourbillons have had a sort of renaissance in the last 20 years, with ever more exotic and exponentially more complex variants, but the basic principle dates back to the 18^th century when Abraham Louis Breguet was looking for a way to beat gravity.

At its most basic, a tourbillon is a rotating carousel that houses the balance wheel of a mechanical movement. The balance is thus in constant, steady rotation. The principle behind this is to reduce positional errors in the balance assembly. When a watch is shifted into different positions, the swing of the balance is affected by gravity. This causes subtle but measurable changes in the accuracy of the timekeeping. By putting the balance into constant rotation one plane of variation is eliminated (in theory).

The tourbillon was originally developed by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1795 as a way to compensate for positional variation in pocketwatches and carriage clocks. As a pocketwatch is usually held upright in a coat pocket, the tourbillon compensates for the effect of gravity in the up-down position (as opposed to flat on the back or dial). Breguet was one of the great innovators of early watchmaking, producing highly complicated pieces (including the legendary Marie Antoinette pocketwatch) and developing significant advances in timekeeping technology. Unfortunately Breguet was notorious for not keeping records or plans of his work, so these early tourbillons are shrouded in a bit of mystery. Supposedly the first was designed for Napoleon Bonaparte's personal carriage clock A few pocketwatches were produced by Breguet for special orders. It’s not even known if they performed much better than a standard, high quality movement.

Therein lies the oddity of the tourbillon – it is a highly complex system that doesn’t really do anything. In the early days of watchmaking positional variance was a major hurdle in achieving perfect accuracy; today a standard movement can be adjusted to run very accurately in multiple positions (the basis of chronometer testing) without the aid of something so complex and delicate as a tourbillon. As such, the tourbillon is more of a display of watchmaking talent than a useful complication. It’s become the standard measure of a high-end manufacture – if you make a tourbillon, you are one of the big boys in the Swiss industry.  

A tourbillon is extremely difficult to produce and adjust. To get an idea of the complexity involved, you must recognize what is going on in the tourbillon “cage” – like any mechanical movement, power from the mainspring is being transmitted through the balance wheel to the gears of the movement. The balance regulates the flow of power from the mainspring to the rest of the movement. A tourbillon is taking the power, regulating it, then transferring it into the movement – all while rotating steadily within a tiny suspended assembly. A tourbillon cage rotates at a steady rate, measured in seconds or minutes. The most common is 1 minute (so the cage rotates once every 60 seconds, and doubles as a second indicator) but 30 second and multiple minute tourbillons exist as well. Generally a tourbillon will be exhibited through an opening on the dial, though some manufacturers (Panerai and Patek Philippe for example) only show it through the caseback. As it is such a complex and expensive complication, it makes sense that it should be proudly displayed on the dial for all to see.

How expensive is this complexity? Generally, a Swiss-made tourbillon will run at least 30 000 to 50 000$ (Alpina and Frederique Constant produce them in this price range), and can easily reach into the hundreds of thousands for something from a major manufacture with multiple complications. Don’t even ask about service costs, as only a small number of specialist watchmakers can adjust and fix tourbillons. Swiss tourbillons are the domain of the elite and a very visible display of watchmaking prowess. Now it should be noted that there are Chinese-made tourbillons that can clock in under 1000$, but the level of finishing is far removed from the Swiss examples. Chinese tourbillons are functional but rough around the edges, and rarely very accurate. As with everything in life, you get what you pay for. And one must beware of the numerous fake tourbillons out there that simply exhibit the balance wheel of the movement through the dial (normally called an open-heart but often described as tourbillons by unscrupulous sellers).

There are a variety of tourbillon designs on the market. A traditional design has a cage surrounding the assembly that houses the balance dead centre in the system, with solid bridges on both sides of the cage. The flying tourbillon appears to float in space by having a single mount on one side, rather than a bridge on each side. A carousel is a variation where the balance wheel is mounted off centre, so it orbits around the centre of the cage. After that, you get into multi-axis tourbillons and tourbillons with additional complications.

The craze for tourbillons only really began in the late 1990s. Up until that point there had not been many tourbillons designed or produced in any real numbers, just a few odd examples here and there from independent watchmakers as a demonstration of skill. Mechanical movements in general went on the decline in the 1970s following the quartz crisis; in the 1980s manufacturers changed tactics to promote mechanical movements as a luxury item. Soon brands began making ever more complicated models to stand out, with the demand for complications peaking in the late 1990s. It was during this period that the tourbillon found resurgence among major brands as a flagship complication.

By the 2000s the simple single-axis tourbillon was not enough to satisfy the growing demand for ever-more-complicated watches. Thus began the trend of double tourbillons (two tourbillons in a single movement, sometimes more) and the mesmerizing multi-axis tourbillon. Perhaps the most famous multi-axis tourbillon is the Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon, which was released in 2005. The Gyrotourbillon is a dual-plane design, where a cage rotates within another rotating cage, both spinning at different rates. The effect is of a ball spinning through space. It is exponentially more complicated than a single-axis tourbillon and far more difficult to design and produce. Of course, someone had to one-up JLC – first were the multiple dual-axis tourbillons from Greubel-Forsey, and now the latest benchmark is the flying triple-axis tourbillon from independent maker Thomas Prescher. These movements are spectacularly complicated, and priced accordingly (about half a millon for the Prescher).

When it comes to haute-horlogerie complications, tourbillons are the king of the market. Every major brand worth their salt in high-end watchmaking will produce one. Every watch aficionado will lust after one, and be able to immediately spot one on the wrist from 100 yards. It is one of the most expensive and most spectacular complications available today, perhaps surpassed only by the minute repeater as a superfluous and exorbitant complication. For many people handling a tourbillon will be a once-in-a-lifetime experience; a tourbillon model production run for a brand almost never exceeds 100 examples, not mentioning the exceptional cost of purchasing such a watch. If you ever have the chance to hold a tourbillon, cherish the moment and study it carefully. It is one of the most mesmerizing and spectacularly complicated mechanical devices out there, and seeing one in person is something very special indeed. Concerns about gravity and accuracy be damned, a tourbillon is a cool complication no matter how useless it really is.

Related tags: Bell Ross, Breguet, Frederique constant, alpina, complication, faq, history, jaeger lecoultre, jlc, swiss, tourbillon, watches in depth

New Alpina Startimers

Since we introduced Alpina to the Montreal market some three years ago, we here at Matt Baily’s have seen the brand evolve from a small manufacturer of quirky sport watches into a well-respected marque producing very desirable watches for very reasonable prices. This year Alpina has introduced a slew of new entry-level models that are very reasonably priced while still showing a marked improvement in quality. Chief among these new models is the Startimer Pilot series, which was announced earlier this year alongside the Sailing collection. After several months of anticipation, we finally have the Startimer collection in store, and they do not disappoint.

The big-pilot is one of the most recognizable watch designs of all time. The originals were the Fliegeruhr (pilot watch) and Beobachtungsuhr (navigator watch) used during the 1930s and 40s by German aviators. The design brief was to have a large wristwatch that could be worn on the outside of a flightsuit with a highly legible luminescent dial. Fligeruhrs featured a standard 12-hour Arabic numeral dial, while the Beobachtungsuhr (B-Uhr) had a larger Arabic minute scale with the hours indicated in the centre of the dial. These watches were produced by a number of companies, including IWC, Wempe, Laco, Lange, and several others. Nowadays IWC is the best-known producer of big-pilot watches, but many other brands make recreations of the originals.

The Startimer takes the style of the original Fliegeruhr and makes it a more wearable everyday watch. While the originals were 55mm, and the current IWC Big Pilot is 47mm, the Alpinas are a reasonably sized 44mm. The case is a simple, slim design with a nice mixture of brushed and polished finishing. It wears well, with a big face and expansive dial area but while remaining relatively slender for an automatic design of this size. The chronograph has a thicker case to accommodate the Valjoux calibre movement, but it is still not as big and hefty as the IWC Big Pilot. The crystal is sapphire item with an anti-reflective coating, lightly domed and fitted into a thin polished bezel. The crown is a large and easy to manipulate item, in keeping with the pilot theme. Meanwhile the chrono has very big pump pushers that are easy to use and have a very solid feel – it’s the type of chrono you can easily use with gloves on.

An exhibition caseback shows off the nicely detailed movement, something that sets Alpina apart from their competitors in this price range. Where other brands in this price range will make do with a basic undecorated ETA calibre, Alpina does one better by featuring a finely finished Selitta movement with their unique asymmetrical rotor. Just try and find an automatic Swiss watch for under 1500$ from a major brand with this level of finishing on the movement.

The dials are the highlight of the Startimer, as they should be on a pilot’s watch. Legibility at a glance is key to this type of design, and the Startimer is great in this regard. The dials are matte black with crisply printed white numerals, with applied (yes, applied, not printed) luminescent markers. The hands are pointed sword style in bright white with large luminescent centres. A red counterweight in the shape of the Alpina triangle on the sweep seconds hand adds a touch of colour to the otherwise clean and simple dial. On the basic automatic you’ll find a date window at 3 o’clock. Nothing flashy or fancy here, just an easy-to-read and slick looking dial.

Two options are available for straps – a leather item with a deployant buckle, or a stainless-steel link bracelet with hidden clasp. It’s rare to see this sort of design with a metal bracelet, so it is nice to see that Alpina is offering the bracelet as an option for those who prefer it. My favourite is the leather strap, however, which is a classic pilot-style in thick hide with a reversed buckle. It’s a strap that will last a long while and looks great with this design.

The Startimer is a fantastic collection of watches, offering really exceptional quality and distinct style for very reasonable money. The automatics are under 1500$, while the chronograph is just under 3000$ - these are a lot of watch for the money, and are well worth the price of admission. Each piece in the collection is limited to 8888 pieces, produced in partnership with Privatair in Switzerland. Alpina is doing a great job of improving their line while reducing their prices, with the Startimer collection leading the charge. If you have any questions about Alpina or wish to place an order, please call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: Alpina, Chronograph, IWC, automatic, big pilot, limited edition, new, pilot, startimer, swiss, valjoux

Watches in Depth - Chronometers

For centuries the pursuit of accuracy and stable rate in clocks and watches has been the driving force behind innovation and quality. The pursuit of accuracy is a cause that has significant trickle-down effects to even the least expensive mechanical watches, much moreso than the pursuit of ever-more complicated pieces. Where a highly complex watch is a bold and visible display of watchmaking prowess, the pursuit of absolute precision is the application of immense skill that often goes unnoticed by the consumer. The chronometer is a finely crafted mechanical watch that exhibits the highest degree of accuracy possible, with official certification to declare it as such. Outside of high-complications, the building of chronometers is one of the top tiers of watchmaking.

The term chronometer is a slippery one, a word that has shifted in meaning over the centuries. It was originally coined in 1714 by Jeremy Thacker and simply meant “measurer of time”. At that time the only “chronometer” (in terms of performance) was the marine clock, developed by John Harrison between 1730 and 1760 as a way of accurately measuring longitude at sea. The problem until that time was that latitude was easy to calculate by using the position of the sun and stars, but longitude was only calculable by measuring the difference in time between your start point and your current point at sea. The idea is that you have a perfectly accurate clock that shows the time in homeport; you note the local time by comparing high noon of the sun with your ship’s clock, and you have your time difference that can then be calculated into degrees of longitude. Problem was, there was no such clock before Harrison came along. Nothing could perform reliably and accurately at sea, where conditions were variable – hot, cold, humid, dry, and of course constantly moving and tilting.

Harrison fought hard to have his inventions adopted by the British admiralty, despite considerably opposition from conservative thinkers (notably the Royal astronomers who were attempting to develop a method for measuring longitude by the positions of the moon). In the end Harrison’s chronometers, H1 through H4, performed remarkably well. They deviated only a few seconds over a period of a weeks at sea, measuring longitude to within a few miles. This was from a carpenter who was a self-taught watchmaker. The Harrison designs would eventually set the standard for marine chronometers. At this point a chronometer was considered a design rather than a measure of performance, with a so-called chronometer escapement being the norm in marine designs.

Personal (as in commercially available pocket watches) chronometers didn’t emerge until the 19^th century. They were spurred on by the need for accurate timekeeping in the new railway systems to ensure safe operation. A crash between two trains in Ohio in 1891 due to a stopped pocketwatch prompted the establishment of a railroad chronometer standard, spearheaded in the United States by Webster Clay Ball. Ball began by modifying movements from existing manufacturers and establishing testing for accuracy that would become the basis of modern chronometric competitions – measurement of rate and deviation in five different positions, resistance to magnetism, and isochronism of the beat. Later chronometer testing would add categories for the effects of temperature, but to this day the five-position test is the official standard.

Now what about this isochronism? Isochronism is the variation between the swings of the balance wheel. The balance wheel of the escapement rotates back and forth on a hairspring, and an ideal beat is perfectly even swings back and forth – this is perfect isochronism. Most movements have a small variation between the swings that can affect the accuracy; to have a steady rate isochronism must be adjusted as close to perfect as possible, hence its importance in chronometer testing. Adjusting for isochronism is a bit of an art that encompasses a variety of tiny changes in the shape and position of the hairspring as well as the weight of the balance wheel.

Wristwatches didn’t come into vogue until after the First World War, where they had become popular among soldiers as an easy way to check the time without fumbling through pockets. Up to then wristwatches were designed for women exclusively as pieces of jewellery, and accuracy was not of particular importance (variations of minutes a day was considered acceptable for women’s “wristlets”). The first chronometer wristwatch movement came about in 1910, and it came courtesy of a certain Hans Wilsdorf and his new company – Rolex. Wilsdorf submitted a modified Aegler calibre wristwatch movement to the Biel observatory for testing in 1910 and passed the standards usually reserved for much larger pocketwatch movements. The precedent had now been set.    

In the early 20^th century chronometer performance were determined and tested by observatories in Europe, notably the Kew in Britain and the Geneva and Neuchatel observatories in Switzerland. Competitions were held between brands to achieve the highest score (by having the least amount of variation across positions and temperatures). Each observatory had its own set of rules – Kew was the strictest with a 44-day test regimen, while the Swiss observatories followed a 15-day schedule. Companies began providing production movements for certification to have official chronometers to sell to the public, Rolex being one of the biggest producers of chronometers from the early days right up to the present. Each individual movement must be tested and certified to be legally called a chronometer. Thus if the company says it is a chronometer, the movement in that particular watch was tested. Some companies had their own chronometer tests, a practice that continues to this day, but legally they could not claim to be chronometers without an official certificate from an independently sanctioned testing organization.

Up until the 1970s individual observatories performed tests according to their own regimens. In 1973 an official testing organization was created, the now-ubiquitous Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (C.O.S.C.). The COSC standardized the measurements for the Swiss industry and now no watch can legally be called a chronometer without a COSC certificate. The COSC is an independent company that tests movements from any Swiss manufacturer for a fee, and today has three laboratories, one in Geneva, one in Biel, and one in Le Locle. Passing the tests means the watch can be issued with a unique certificate the details the results of each portion of the test, as well as the serial number of the movement. Any new chronometer that is sold should include this certificate (or an equivalent document). A good performance at the COSC doesn’t guarantee the watch will maintain that level of accuracy forever – the breakdown of oil, shock, and the bedding in of parts means that most chronometers are unlikely to pass the COSC tests after a few years of use, but you can expect them to perform to a higher standard than a typical mechanical movement. Where a basic ETA calibre is expected to vary between 15-20 seconds a day, a chronometer-spec calibre should perform within 5-10 seconds per day or better when new.

Making a chronometer is no easy feat, and was particularly challenging in the early days. It’s not simply a matter of adjusting the timekeeping of a standard movement and calling it done – every part of the movement must be optimized and fine-tuned to keep perfect time in a variety of conditions. The current standard of rate is –4 to +6 seconds per 24 hour period in 5 positions, timed over 15 days, with portions of the test done in high and low temperature conditions for a total of three temperatures; anything more than –4+6 in any of the tests and the movement fails.

To adjust a chronometer, the basic components must be made to the highest possible levels of accuracy to minimize poor tolerances. In the case of graded movements, like those provided by ETA, chronometer grade movements actually have different components than their lesser versions, even though they share the same basic design, and all the parts are finished to a very high level before adjustments even begin. Gears must be perfectly meshed and polished. Arbours and pivots must be precisely shaped and have perfect tolerances. The jewels need to be of the highest quality. All the metals must be as pure as possible and compensated for heat, cold and magnetism wherever possible. The hairspring must be very carefully formed and adjusted to ensure isochronism is perfect. There is no room for sloppy machining, dust, rough surfaces, average parts, or “good enough” engineering.

The biggest threat to performance outside of different positions (which shifts the friction points of the gears and wheels making the performance change) is heat and cold. In different temperatures certain metals expand and contract at different rates. This is particularly important in the balance wheel and hairspring. If the balance wheel expands even a tiny amount in heat, it will run slower, while cold will have the opposite effect. Solutions included compensation balances made of different metals to counteract changes, and more recently Nivarox alloy hairsprings and beryllium alloy balance wheels that are practically immune to temperature change. Compensation techniques were originally the relegated to high-end watchmaking, but over the decades many of these once exclusive technologies have trickled down into less expensive movements and into the realm of mass-production, meaning that today’s basic movements perform better than ever.

Many people have probably seen the “Superlative” tag on the dials of Rolex watches (as in “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”). Many people assume this distinguishes Rolex performance from a normal chronometer. This isn’t the case. A chronometer test by the COSC is pass or fail. Fall within the parameters and you get a certificate, fall outside them and you don’t. The “Superlative” bit is a piece of marketing jargon conceived to make Rolex appear superior. It does not refer to any exceptional performance or accolade from the COSC. This being said, Rolex is by far the largest producer of chronometers in Switzerland, submitting 60% or more of all tested movements each year (to the tune of approximately 800 000 movements per year).  

The COSC has a strict policy against competition in the results. As mentioned, the tests are pass or fail. Before 1973, competitions were held and certain observatories would grade movements according to their performance, creating a hierarchy of results. The COSC was created to stop this practice and give all manufacturers equal footing in the results. In recent years chronometer competitions have slowly begun again (with some surprising results, like inexpensive brands showing up in the standings not far off from watches costing hundreds of thousands of dollars) but these are voluntary competitions that are not related to basic chronometer certification. The COSC is a government-run organization, but with involvement from brands that use their service. A lot of politics are at play to ensure the supremacy of the COSC tests and their non-competitive approach.

Many people claim to get “chronometer performance” out of a watch that isn’t certified as such. Just because your watch runs within 5 seconds a day for a few days does not make it a chronometer. The watch needs to run better than that rate for at least 15 days in five positions at three different temperatures – many watches can keep time within a few seconds, but never with the precision in different conditions that a chronometer will. Chronometers are built from the ground up for maximum precision and predictability, where a base movement will have less expensive finishing and parts throughout and will be highly susceptible to positional changes and temperature variance. 

Certain companies make chronometers (in terms of performance and engineering) but abstain from participating in COSC tests. They cannot legally be called chronometers, but they will perform to the standards of the COSC. The COSC is a third party company that charges for its services, a cost that must be added to the price of the finished watch. Some companies don’t submit to keep the prices down, while others see the COSC as superfluous and unnecessary for proving their quality to the public. Audemars Piguet, Jaeger Le-Coultre, Breguet, IWC, F.P. Journe, A. Lange und Sohne – none of these brands submit to independent tests, preferring to do their own testing in-house to their own standards (which can often be stricter than the COSC guidelines).

Chronometers are not as simple as they would seem. To the average consumer, a chronometer is a highly accurate mechanical watch. In reality they are highly complex items that require a lot of labour and engineering to produce, and are governed by a strict set of standards and rules to ensure that no one abuses the official appellation of “chronometer”. While high-complications may get all the glory in the watch industry, the chronometer is the unsung display of quality and precision that is needed to advance fine watchmaking for the masses. Unbeknownst to most consumers is the power and politics at play around the COSC and the certification of chronometers – it’s a contested arena in the watchmaking world, quite different from the early days of John Harrison’s first marine chronometers.

Related tags: chronometer, cosc, faq, harrison, marine, rolex, swiss, watches in depth

New U-Boat U-1001 47 In Store

Since we became the first U-Boat watch retailer in Canada, U-Boat’s design has become a Matt Baily favourite and one of our best-selling lines. Most U-Boats follow two basic designs, the Classico (formerly Left Hook) and the Flightdeck, with constant updates and variations to keep the models fresh while retaining their distinctive style. If, however, you wish to get a U-Boat that stands apart from the rest of the range (not to mention the rest of the watch industry), there have always been the limited edition series that take things a little further. A recent series that has gotten a lot of attention is the U-1001 limited edition diving model, a 55mm titanium monster that clocks in as one of the biggest watches available today and one of the biggest U-Boats of all time (the number one spot goes to the ultra-exclusive 65mm U-1942).

As cool as the 55mm U-1001 was, it was definitely a niche product. It’s so big that you need massive wrists and forearms to pull it off without looking silly. That is where the new U-1001 47mm comes in – you get the distinctive style and presence of the original U-1001, but in a more modest size that anyone can wear.

Like the original series, these U-1001s are limited to 1001 pieces in each colour (blue and orange). They are water-resistant to 1001 metres and feature a helium escape valve and a double screw-down crown (a screw-down crown underneath the signature crown cap). The details are the same as its bigger brother, but perfectly scaled down – all the bold proportions of the 55 are intact. This is a big plus, as you often see smaller versions of big watches that don’t have the same impact and are modified to suit the smaller scale. This watch is just as imposing and eye-catching as the 55, but infinitely more wearable for those of us with smaller wrists.

Unlike the 55, the new 47 is made of stainless steel rather than titanium. It gives the watch a different look, as the 55 features matte-finish titanium while the 47 uses brushed steel surfaces. It is more eye-catching and gives the watch a higher-quality appearance. I hesitate to use the word “dressy” but somehow it makes sense – matte is industrial, brushed has a more classic look. With such a massive case in steel the watch has a nice heft, about the same weight as the much bigger 55. Finishing overall is very good, with lots of detail on the sides of the case (the serial number plaque is a cool touch, as is the technical info engraved along the edge of the bezel).

The dial is the same as the bigger brother, with a matte-black finish and sandwich numerals exposing the coloured lume underneath. The U-1001 logo is applied in brushed steel and really makes the dial pop; while it is a little odd to read (12 to 3 o’clock markers are replaced by the logo) it definitely adds a distinctive touch to the otherwise clean dial. Big luminescent sword hands round out the design and make it a very legible watch. Simplicity is key with the dial of the U-1001, as it is with most U-Boat models.

The strap is the same heavy-duty rubber with deployant clasp that you will find on the bigger U-1001. It’s comfortable and soft but has a heavy feel that suits the diving nature of the watch. On the wrist it has a unique feel. It’s clearly bigger than the existing 45mm models (thicker too) but doesn’t overwhelm the wrist like the 50mm watches. While 47 would be big for most brands, it is a perfect mid-size in the U-Boat line. The U-1001 is just one of several models that will utilize the new 47mm size (coming soon is a 47mm U-42, and a 46mm U-51), which is great news for those of us who want a big U-Boat but don’t have the wrists for the 50mm plus models.

U-Boat continues to surprise us with its new designs and each one is more impressive than the last – sometimes scaling down the size is a big step forward, certainly if you want to widen the appeal of an otherwise oversized model. The U-1001 47mm is a winner in my opinion, a superb design that is perfectly sized to fit anyone who wants a big, bold U-Boat but doesn’t have the massive meathooks to pull off a 50 plus millimetre watch. For more info on the U-1001 series or any other U-Boat models, feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: U-boat, automatic, classico, diver, italy, limited edition, stainless steel, swiss, u-1001