Jason on ABlogToRead - Vintage Omegas

This week I wrote a brief guide on collecting vintage Omega watches for Ariel Adams at ABlogToRead. Mr. Adams recently had the opportunity to visit the Omega museum at the Biel facility, and provided many excellent photos of some of the key pieces in their collection. I have a personal interest in Omegas made before the 1980s and have a small but growing collection of various models from the 1950s to 1980s, so I wrote this article to share my passion with budding collectors looking to get into Omega.

Collecting Vintage Omegas on ABlogToRead

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: Vintage, collecting, omega, seamaster, speedmaster, swiss

A.Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Timezone

When most people think of fine haute-horlogerie, they think of Switzerland. Rightly so, considering that Switzerland has some of the finest brands in the industry and the vast majority of modern watchmaking talent resides there. There is, however, an exception to this trend – in the Saxon countryside of Germany lies the city of Glashutte, a tiny town that has become the hub of German watchmaking. Here is where you will find the factory of A. Lange & Sohne, one of the finest timepiece manufactures located outside of Switzerland.

The company began in 1845, founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a talented watchsmith who learned his trade in Saxony. The area had a rich heritage of astronomical and horological production; over the decades several notable master craftsmen made their careers building precise instruments for observatories, an industry that required precision timekeepers to ensure accurate calculations. Prior to the emergence of clock and watchmaking, Glashutte had been a boomtown – it was the site of a silver mine that supported the area for some time, but when the lode was exhausted the area fell into poverty. Watch and clock making became a way to exploit the skilled metalworkers in the region, and a highly integrated industry developed in the isolated town.

Lange und Sohne became a well know provider of high quality pocketwatches up until the end of the Second World War. Their products were renowned for their exceptional quality and accuracy, with fine Saxon-style finishing throughout - traditionally gilt frosted finish ¾ plate movements with screwed-chaton jewelling and blued screws, as opposed to the Swiss style of fausses-cotes and perlage on rhodium plated brass bridges. In general Saxon finishing is utilitarian and understated when compared to the flourishes put on Swiss watches – the finishing is still very delicate, but not as flashy. The traditional German finishing is adapted to modern tastes by the modern Lange & Sohne; they still use German silver bridges and screwed chatons (gold bearings that hold the jewels in place with screws, rather than pressed in friction fit).

Lange produced watches for the German military during the Second World War, mainly oversized Fliegeruhrs and Beobachtungsuhrs for the Luftwaffe (including one watch in silver for a certain Mr. Goering). After the German defeat, Glashutte became a part of communist East Germany and all forms of traditional watchmaking was squashed under the regime. The factory was also heavily damaged by Allied bombing in 1945 and pre-war production was never resumed. A few unexceptional calibres and wristwatches were produced under the Lange name, but nothing that rivalled the original glory of the company. The watch industry in Germany was more or less dead under communist rule.

The modern A. Lange & Sohne emerged in 1990 after the fall of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of the East German regime. Walter Lange, the great grandson of Ferdinand A. Lange, wanted to resurrect the fine traditional craftsmanship that his family had practised for a hundred years. A new factory was built in Glashutte with an eye for near-total vertical integration – almost everything would be produced in-house without having to rely on external suppliers. They would also resurrect the Saxon style of finishing and engineering rather than apeing the Swiss to ensure that their product remained distinct. Their products would only be produced in gold and platinum; legend has it that for a few years they produced stainless steel watches, not for sale, but as loaner timepieces while clients were having their watches serviced! In 1994 the first collection of wristwatches was released, including the now-famous Lange 1 with its characteristic double-digit big date display and asymmetrical dial. Since then the Lange 1 has become their signature timepiece and has been the basis of numerous variations and added complications, including what we have here – the Timezone.

The Timezone takes the distinctive layout of the Lange 1 and adds the useful complication of a secondary timezone with quick-set adjustment linked to a rotating inner bezel. The Lange 1 layout is normally hours and minutes in the upper left, big date in the upper right, power reserve at 3 o’clock, and small-seconds at 5 o’clock. On the Timezone, the sub-seconds are moved into the main time dial, and the small seconds dial is turned into a second time display. Two day-night indicators are added adjacent to each time display. The power reserve and big date are in the same spots. On the outer edge of the dial is a rotating internal bezel that lists the major cities of the world, giving the watch the look of a world timer (purists should note it is not a true worldtimer, but instead a dual-time watch with region indication). A small arrow next to the secondary time indicates which city is being displayed on the bezel.

The case is an 18k rose gold affair, with quick-set pushers on the left side for the big date (at top) and the timezone (the bottom). The diameter is a substantial 42mm, one of the largest watches Lange produces – the original Lange 1 was 38.5mm, and most Langes are between 37 and 40mm. The extra real estate is occupied by the internal bezel, so the proportions are retained without making it look like they stuck the same movement in a bigger design. The caseback has a sapphire exhibition window to show off the magnificently finished movement. While it appears plain at first glance (the ¾ plate bridge hides most of the mechanism; Swiss designs have spoiled us by revealing every gear and lever through skeletal bridgework) this is a spectacular movement finished by hand to the highest order.

Lange is unique for their exclusive use of German silver for the movement bridges. Despite the name it contains no silver – it is a copper, nickel and zinc alloy. Traditional Swiss movements use brass with either a rhodium (silver) finish or gilt (gold) plating. Some haute-horlogerie brands (F.P. Journe) use 18k gold for their baseplates and bridges. German silver is a more rigid material and has better structural qualities, and does not need to be plated to prevent corrosion – the finish you see is the bare metal, which has a warm honeyed colour. Unfortunately German silver has an extremely delicate finish – any handling will show up. The only way around this is to assemble the movement and test it, then to take it apart again to clean it and touch up the finish, and then assemble once more. Thus the assembly time is double what it should be! It’s a testament to Lange attention to detail and uncompromising quality. They could rhodium plate the bridges and omit the second assembly phase, but then it wouldn’t really be the same. They are a small manufacture, not a mass-production facility; they pride themselves on taking the time to do things perfectly.

All the parts are impeccably polished and bevelled, each jewel in the main bridge is secured with a gold chaton, and everything is held together with perfectly heat-blued screws. It’s the sort of old-world craftsmanship that is rarely seen in modern watches. Not only that, but each balance cock is engraved by hand by a single technician. No two balances are the same, and each engraver has a distinctive style. Little flourishes like that is what sets Lange apart.

The movement is a manually wound calibre L031.1 and has a power reserve of 72 hours, the same as a standard Lange 1. Winding is buttery smooth and the quicksets function with a nice soft click (perhaps a bit too soft; I often found myself accidentally setting the date when I wanted to advance the timezone - I would be worried about accidentally bumping the sizeable pushers if I were wearing this daily). The extra complications are visible through the caseback; an additional set of gears and a bridge ride above the main bridge of the movement. The added bridge is engraved just like the balance cock, which is to say spectacularly. Considering the Timezone is a significant premium over the standard model, it’s the least they can do.

The Timezone is not inexpensive. Retail price is 45600$ CAD. We are offering this example in lightly used condition for 29500$. But for that price you are getting something that goes toe-to-toe with the best from Switzerland; there are many who would say that Lange is better than Patek Philippe, and slightly less expensive (a Patek worldtimer is around 50-odd thousand, and commands a premium on the used market as well). Lange is certainly a brand for connoisseurs who want something different, a piece of haute-horlogerie that you won’t find on the wrist of every oil magnate and bank executive. While Patek is the go-to brand for the truly wealthy, Lange is the choice for distinguished collectors who appreciate superb quality and finishing but don’t want to play the brand-name-game.

To book an appointment to view the Lange 1 Timezone please call us at 514 845 8878, or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 18k gold, a. lange sohne, german, glashutte, gmt, haute horlogerie, lange, timezone, worldtimer

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date

In the annals of watchmaking history, Jaeger LeCoultre is one of the powerhouse manufactures that has enjoyed steady success for over a century by producing top-tier timepieces and distinctive products that have led the market in quality and style. Today JLC is a true manufacture, producing all of its components in-house and finishing its watches to the highest level while maintaining competitive pricing. Quality and value have long been the tenets of JLC; they are also known for their innovative models that have become icons of classic design, such as the Polaris, Memovox, Atmos, and the famous Reverso.

Jaeger LeCoultre began as LeCoultre, the creation of Swiss visionary Antoine LeCoultre who founded a watchmaking workshop in Le Sentier in 1833. Until the early 20^th century they produced high-quality movements and ebauches for other brands, offering a huge catalogue ranging from basic timekeepers to extremely complicated calibres. LeCoultre also innovated in the production of high-precision equipment, being the first to design a device capable of measuring tolerances to the micron – in 1844! As such LeCoultre became a manufacture of the highest precision, pioneering the use of interchangeable parts in high-quality calibres.

In 1903 Jaeger came into the picture – French watchmaker Edmond Jaeger to be precise. He formed a partnership with Jacques-David LeCoultre, grandson of Antoine, to produce the thinnest pocketwatch movements in the world and their creations remain record holders to this day (the basic calibre was 1.38mm thick, while a minute repeater was all of 3.5mm). Jaeger was a pioneer in aviation and his company produced aircraft (and later automobile) instruments and clocks for many decades, but after his successful collaboration with LeCoultre in the 1900s Edmond formed a partnership that led to the creation of the Jaeger LeCoultre watch brand. After decades of producing movements for other companies, they were finally making watches of their own design. (Something to note – in the US market watches were branded LeCoultre until 1985, while in the rest of the world they showed Jaeger LeCoutre on the dial. Automotive instruments were produced under the Jaeger name until the 1990s)

One of the most famous JLC designs, and still one of their top sellers, is the art-deco classic – the Reverso. In 1931 a group of British officers in India challenged LeCoultre to create a watch that would be able to withstand the rigors of playing polo, while being able to transition to a formal affair with ease. A durable yet elegant watch was needed to solve the problem of watch crystals being smashed during play. The solution was ingenious – a watch that could be flipped over on the wrist without being removed, with a solid caseback opposite the dial to protect against damage. It still had to be elegant and well integrated; the final design is a true design classic, with a perfectly proportioned rectangular shape and integrated lugs and architectural details that hide the mechanism. When closed it isn’t apparent that this is a watch that can transform, and the hidden back allows for endless personalization ranging from simple engravings to hand-painted enamel artworks. The design was so popular that it remained in production until the 1970s, and was re-introduced to much acclaim in the 1990s. It remains one of JLC’s signature watches.

Nowadays most people wouldn’t be crazy enough to wear an expensive mechanical watch when playing sports (though some still do, right Mr. Nadal?). As a result the Reverso has become more of a dressy art-deco watch than something anyone would dare wear playing polo. This means that the reverse side has become the showcase for various extra functions, another dial, or in the case of this Grande Date an exhibition window on the movement. Having an exhibition case allows you to wear the watch with the movement showing – how many times have you admired a fine calibre and wished you could wear the watch upside down to gaze upon the mechanical beauty? Now you can!

Like all Jaegers, the Reverso Grande Date features an in-house movement that is quite impressive considering the relatively modest price. It has twin spring barrels for a full 8-day power reserve, and it features power reserve and big-date complications on the dial side, made all the more remarkable considering the modest size of the case (29 by 46 mm). The movement is beautifully finished, with cotes-de-geneve striping and fine polishing throughout. JLC prides itself on manufacturing and designing all their movement entirely in-house, and this calibre 875 is a beauty. It winds buttery smooth too. It is also stringently tested; JLC doesn’t submit their watches for COSC chronometer trials, instead performing a 6 week (or 1000 hour) torture test on each watch that includes exposure to shocks, water, multiple positions, multiple temperatures, and of course accuracy testing. In many ways it is stricter than the traditional COSC accuracy tests.

While the 29mm width doesn’t sound like much, the Grande Date is a sizeable watch. Lug to lug it is 46.5mm, so it has a lot of wrist presence. The elongated shape disguises how big it actually is – it is in fact part of the Grande Taille collection, which is larger than the classic Reverso (but smaller than the Squadra sport models). With hefty lugs and a thick case, it is a watch that straddles the line between imposing and elegant - which is right in line with the art-deco styling, an aesthetic that often equal parts industrial, architectural, and finesse. Those signature horizontal lines that hide the opening of the Reverso case and blend it into the lugs are pure art-deco, the shape and detail of the case would look right at home in the Chrysler Building or in a Humphrey Bogart flick.

The Grande Date is still available from JLC, but not in stainless steel. This version has been discontinued in favour of a gold model. That means that this watch represents good value for such fine watchmaking, moreso when you consider the current replacement retails for double the price. The Reverso is a design classic from a storied brand that offers great style and fine quality. Everyone needs as least one square watch in his or her collection, and for many the Reverso is the only choice. It’s the only watch that has a purpose to its shape, and its party trick still delights watch lovers after 80 years. For more information on our Reverso Grande Date or any other watches we have in stock, feel free to call me at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 8 days, big date, classic, dress watch, jaeger, jlc, manual wind, power reserve, reverso

Watches in Depth - Minute Repeaters

In the realm of complications there are certain functions that surpass all others in terms of complexity. You have the tourbillon, the most common superfluous complication out there. You have the perpetual calendar, the mechanical calculator that computes the leap year cycle. You can have a myriad of lesser complications combined together. But for the true watch lover, nothing beats the king of haute-horlogerie – the mighty repeater complication, one of the most difficult mechanisms to execute and one of the single most expensive complications to purchase.

What is a repeater? It’s a watch that chimes the time, either passively without the wearer’s intervention (as in a sonnerie) or by activating a mechanism through a slide or button (the repeater). Sounds simple enough. But to create a mechanical chime that can compute the current hours and minutes, and ring them clearly and beautifully, is a staggeringly difficult task. As a result repeaters and sonneries can be some of the most expensive timekeeping devices you can buy and strap to your wrist.

Repeaters began as a way of checking the time in the dark, in the days long before the introduction of luminescent dials. The watch “repeats” the time back to the wearer with a series of chimes struck on internal gongs. Normally there are two gongs: one low pitch, one high pitch. Hours are indicated by a low tone, quarter hours by a high tone and low tone alternating, and minutes by a high tone. So, if the watch struck “tong tong tong, ting-tong, ting ting ting” it would be 3 hours, 1 quarter (15 minutes) and three minutes past the quarter – 3.18. Repeaters have existed for centuries, developed in watch format in the late 1600s by two inventors simultaneously (Englishmen Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare).

That pattern of indicating hours, quarters and minutes is the minute-repeater. It can chime to within the minute indicated on the dial. A five-minute-repeater can chime to the nearest 5-minute interval, while a quarter-repeater will only chime the hours and quarters. A half-quarter repeater will indicate the halfway point between each quarter (7 ½ minutes). A simple repeater will chime only the hours. Nowadays the most common (if you can call it such) repeater is the minute repeater; it is also the most difficult to execute.

The sonnerie (sometimes called a “clock watch”) is a function that will be familiar to anyone who has had a grandfather clock – it passively chimes the quarter hours (15 minutes) and the hours. You may have the Westminster chime added as well (think Big Ben). A grand sonnerie will chime the hours followed by the quarters at each quarter, so at 4.15 it will strike four low tones followed by one ting-tong for the quarter. The hour is indicated at each quarter. A petite sonnerie strikes the hours at the top of the hour only, with only the dual tone at the quarters. In most modern sonnerie watches there will be a selector slide that will allow the wearer to select grand, petite, or no sonnerie. The most complicated repeater mechanism will combine a minute repeater with a sonnerie. Sonneries are particularly complex because they require a constant power supply from the movement to function, either drawing from a second mainspring or feeding off the mainspring of the movement. A repeater normally has a spring mechanism integrated into the activating slide so it doesn’t draw any extra power.

So how does this complication function? This is where the beauty and complexity of the repeater shows through. First, the watch needs to be able to determine the current exact time to correctly strike what is indicated on the dial. To accomplish this there is a delicate series of star and snail-armed gears connected to the pinions of the hour and minute hands under the dial. Each tooth represents either an hour, quarter or minute; a set of levers follows the wheels as they turn and constantly indicate the current time. These act upon a series of levers that control the striking mechanism. This striking “computer” has several snail-shell shaped gears that determine the number of strikes and what gong (high or low) to use.

When the slide on the side of the case is pushed a tiny spring is wound. This spring has just enough tension to run the repeater once, each push of the slide winds it up again. There is a small blocker attached to the slide called an all-or-nothing piece that will only allow the repeater to start if the slide is fully pushed (a lazy push will not activate it at all, this corrected a problem with early models that wouldn’t chime the complete repetition if the slide was half-heartedly moved). The spring activates the mechanism, which determines the current time based on the position of the levers and snail gears and then translates that into a series of strikes from two hammers. The chime is a pair of hammers that strike a round wire gong that runs the perimeter of the case around the movement.

Patek Philippe Reference 2419 Minute Repeater from HODINKEE on Vimeo.

(Courtesy of Hodinkee.com, a vintage Patek Philippe Minute Repeater)

Creating a clear and loud chime is a challenge for any watchmaker designing a repeater. The delicacy of the parts, the lack of space, and the minimal power available to move the hammers all conspire against having a prominent chime. Additionally the material of the case has a significant effect on the sound. Because it is such an expensive complication, many minute repeaters are cased in gold or platinum. However, because of the density of these precious metals, the sound is deadened by the case. The best sounding repeaters are traditionally steel cased, and many watchmakers choose to use steel for this reason. Hence you can see a repeating watch going for several hundred thousand dollars with a stainless steel case. Some newer designs are making use of the good acoustic properties of sapphire crystal by attaching the gongs directly to the front crystal of the watch, while other companies (like Hublot, for example) are using high tech composite materials that enhance the acoustics of the chime. Even then, the loudest and clearest minute repeaters are still quite unobtrusive, softly chiming the time without being annoyingly loud. Think something along the lines of a wind-up music box and you have a good idea of what they sound like.

Minute repeaters and sonneries, while incredibly intricate on their own, are often combined with other haute-complications to create spectacular watches of staggering complexity. The traditional “triple-complication” is a minute repeater with a chronograph and perpetual calendar, this having been a popular combination in pocket watches for over a hundred years. Today some of the most complex watches in existence have minute repeater mechanisms on top of tourbillons, perpetual calendars, split-seconds chronographs, celestial displays, equations of time… you name it, and it’s been combined into a single design. Because it is a subtle complication, only indicated from the outside by the presence of a slide on the side of the case, the minute repeater is a classical watch complication for true aficionados who are willing to spend obscene amounts of money for pure complexity without any flashiness (or the complication-fad-du-jour). Anyone can spot a tourbillon when they are spinning around on the dial, but a minute repeater is a rare and low-key beast that will only reveal itself when you activate it and let loose a string of delicate chimes.

Minute repeaters are rarefied territory, even for high complications. While most major companies will produce at least one tourbillon model, only the top watchmaking houses are capable of producing minute repeaters and sonneries. As such they are some of the most expensive wrist (and pocket) watches ever crafted. Handling a minute repeater is a once in a lifetime experience. 

Related tags: complication, faq, haute horlogerie, minute repeater, sonnerie, swiss, watches in depth

New U-Boat U-51 46mm Limited Edition

In the realm of big watches, U-Boat is king. Starting around 10 years ago, U-Boat was the first company to produce huge watches in 50mm plus diameters. At the time big watches were just beginning to come into vogue, since then big watches have become the norm and U-Boat has flourished. However, there are some folks (myself included) who just don’t have the wrist size to pull off a massive watch. Up until now there have been the 45mm Classico and Flightdeck models for people who want a big watch without going into the 50mms, but the limited edition pieces were always in the bigger size range. This year U-Boat has addressed this by introducing several new series of 46-47mm limited editions, including the U-1001, U-42, and the subject of today’s blog, the U-51.

The U-51 series began as a very limited 99 piece edition featuring a top-tier rattrapante chronograph movement. Featuring a 51mm stainless steel case with hidden strap lugs, the U-51 had a completely unique design that retained the signature U-Boat size and crown cap, but was otherwise distinct from the rest of the range. Last year the line was expanded with a second edition of 99 examples with a standard chronograph movement (without the complicated rattrapante mechanism), still featuring the 51mm case. This year the U-51 gets downscaled to 46mm, in an edition of 300 pieces.

Like the previous models, the U-51 46mm retains the distinctive case design with features three pieces (bezel, body and caseback) held together with screwed pins running around the perimeter of the case. It creates a great industrial look that really stands apart, and offers lots of visual detail by alternating between high polish, brushed, and matte finished steel. The 46mm adds a set of traditional strap lugs to keep it from looking too small on the wrist. Additionally the sapphire crystal is domed to distinguish the 46 from its bigger brothers. The U-51 has always had an interesting look on the wrist – it is extremely thick, giving it a hockey-puck-on-a-strap look. The addition of regular lugs instead of hidden items lessens the effect slightly, but this is still a hefty timepiece that is sure to draw attention. You won’t forget you are wearing this watch, it is still a heavy piece despite the smaller size.

A highly decorated automatic movement is visible through the exhibition caseback. The movement is a top-grade Valjoux automatic calibre, a signature of U-Boat’s limited editions that distinguishes them from the standard models. You can expect reliable and accurate performance from the tried-n-true calibre. As per U-Boat tradition the crown and pushers are on the left side to provide more comfort (many assume it is a left-handed watch, but in fact the reversed controls are to prevent the large hardware from digging into the back of your hand). The U-51 has large, easy to manipulate pushers that follow the usual reversed layout – the bottom pusher starts and stops while the top resets.

The dial is a highlight of the design and is subtly different from the previous models. The numerals are stencil-style Arabic in white luminescent paint, with broad luminescent baton hands to match. Legibility is good, and the asymmetrical sizing of the chronograph subdials lends some interest to the dial. The seconds subdial is huge, which makes reading the running seconds easy. The central (chronograph sweep) seconds hand is coloured a dark hunter green that matches some green details on the rest of the dial. A close inspection will reveal that the dial is a three-dimensional item, with sandwich cutaways around the subdials. U-Boat has always had distinctive dials and this watch is no exception.

The U-51 46 comes on a beautiful rallye-style alligator strap in a black satin finish. Like all U-Boat straps it is hand-crafted in Italy and superbly finished with thick grain leather and matching stitching. The texture is beautiful, with a pronounced alligator grain and a semi-gloss jet black finish. Oftentimes a good watch can be let down by a poor quality band, but U-Boat always pairs their timepieces with beautiful straps. Leave it to the Italians to give their watches a nice classy pair of shoes.

The U-51 46mm is an eye catching and completely unique piece from U-Boat that continues the tradition of bold limited editions – in a  more modest size. It may be a few mms smaller than the “original” U-51, but the 46 still packs a lot of visual punch and is a standout watch that will not go unnoticed. Wallflowers need not apply, this a serious watch that you wear if you want to get noticed; beneath that bold styling you will find some fine detailing and finishing, so this an imposing watch that has both dominating presence and quality. All in a smaller, easier to wear package. For information on U-Boats or any other watches we carry here at Matt Baily’s, give me a call at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 46mm, Chronograph, Flightdeck, U-Boat, classico, italy, limited edition, swiss, u-1001, u-42, u-51, valjoux

Rolex Explorer I 214270

Rolex has many storied models that have become legendary among watch aficionados and collectors alike. There are the ubiquitous Submariner and Sea-Dweller models, and the pilot’s favourite GMT Masters, and of course the ever-popular Datejust and Day-Date models that have become symbols of classic style and distinction. But one model range is often forgotten in favour of its more glamourous siblings – the Explorer series. Reaching back over 50 years, the Explorer has long been an understated and rugged sport model that has a rich history that should put it into the pantheon of other Rolex sport models. As a result the Explorer remains a gentleman’s sport watch that is chosen by a distinguished few who eschew the glamour of its more famous stablemates in favour of a simple and functional timepiece that goes about its business quietly and reliably.

The Explorer had its origins in the 1950s as a more rugged version of a “bubbleback” wristwatch with a plain, easy to read dial. The first examples had stainless steel cases, silver dials with applied hour markers and dauphin (pointed) hands, and a proven automatic winding calibre with chronometer certification. Rolex supplied watches to several expeditions to conquer Mount Everest, beginning in the 1930s. In 1953 Sir Edmund Hillary and sherpa Tenzing Norgay finally conquered the summit, with a Rolex bubbleback on Tenzing’s wrist (Hillary was in fact wearing a British Smiths wristwatch, something that has been buried under decades of Rolex marketing). Subsequently a new model line was named Explorer (some confusion exists as to whether Explorer models were made before or after the 1953 expedition, regardless the expedition became the key selling point for the line after 1953), and it soon developed a distinctive style that has persisted to this day.  

The Explorer as we know it was introduced in 1953 as references 6298, 6150 and 6350. These references are the most easily recognizable as Explorers as they introduced the signature black dial with luminous hour markers – with Arabic 3-6-9 and block markers for the remainder. Hands were broad luminescent skeleton items. Legibility was key, and these early models set the standard. Most importantly, the name Explorer appeared on the dial and the series was officially born. The 6350/6150 was replaced by the 6610 in 1959 (with a new movement calibre and a different case) but retained the signature dial.

From 1963 onward the 6610 was replaced by the legendary 1016. This would prove to be one of Rolex’s longest-lived models, being in continuous production with minor updates until 1989. As before it had the black 3-6-9 dial and luminous hands (similar to Submariner hands), a 36mm stainless steel case, and a chronometer movement. The 1016 was replaced by the 14270 (now known as the Explorer I to distinguish it from the Explorer II GMT models) which retained the 36mm size but otherwise revamped the model with a new case, sapphire crystal, new movement, and a more modern dial with applied hour markers. An evolution of the ref 14270 was the 114270 from 2001-2010 that had an updated movement and heavier Oyster bracelet, but was cosmetically unchanged.

In 2010 Rolex announced the release of a bigger Explorer I, the ref 214270. For its entire production from 1953 to 2010, as sure as the sun rose, the Explorer I had a 36mm case. The 214270 broke tradition by upping the ante to 39mm. While this may not sound huge by modern standards, it is a sizeable watch with an expansive dial that dwarfs the outgoing 114270. With the classic Oyster bracelet it appears bigger on the wrist than the numbers suggest. Otherwise it is very similar in appearance to the outgoing model, offering the same dial and hands and the same case shape. The bracelet received an update, going to the heavy-link “super” Oyster with machined (vs. stamped) clasp. As always, Rolex allowed the model to gently evolve without making any drastic changes outside of a small bump in diameter. Rolex has never been known to make radical changes, at least not without upsetting their staunch fanbase.

The Explorer has always been a “tool” watch, a rugged and easy-to-read design that can be worn in any situation. It looks good with jeans and a t-shirt, or with a suit and tie. You can wear it while digging a ditch or at a dinner club. It’s functional without extraneous complications, just the time and nothing else. It’s long been one of my personal favourites as it is understated and doesn’t scream “look at me, I have a Rolex”, but offers all of the good qualities Rolex is known for (impeccable quality, excellent reliability and performance, good water resistance, and clean design). There are those of us who appreciate Rolex quality but don’t want to wear the Submariner. You won’t see Explorers on the wrists of every investment banker this side of Luxembourg, and for me that is a plus.

The Explorer is a model with a long history and many decades of consistent design and functionality, and the new 214270 continues the tradition admirably with subtle updates and a modern size. It keeps the tradition going without deviating much from the original design, something Rolex has become known for - almost all their models are evolutions of watches that have been in production for decades. The Explorer is a rugged and simple watch that goes about its business without fuss. It’s a great choice for someone who wants a usable everyday watch that can make the transition from hard use to dress with ease. If you are interested in our Explorer 214270 or any other preowned watch in our inventory feel free to call me at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: automatic, explorer, history, rolex, sport, swiss, watch

New Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto Chrono

Hamilton has long been a Matt Baily favourite here in Montreal, offering superb value for reasonable money. Hamiltons have elegant designs, are well built, nicely finished, and offer exceptional bang for buck compared to most Swiss brands. The latest Jazzmaster chronograph continues the tradition, while offering a subtle evolutionary upgrade of the existing series.

Outwardly the new Jazzmaster looks very similar to previous models, but inside there is a key upgrade that puts Hamilton ahead of the competition in this price category. The movement inside takes the Valjoux 7753 automatic chronograph architecture and tweaks it, exclusively for Hamilton, to offer better performance and much longer power reserve. The mainspring barrel is enlarged to stretch the power reserve from 40 odd hours to a full 60 hours, while the balance hairspring is modified to improve overall accuracy. The movement is finished to a higher degree than the previous Valjoux Elabore grade movements. Up until this point Hamilton has used off-the-shelf Valjoux calibres with minimal decoration, as you would expect in a automatic chronograph that retails for under 2000$. The new H31/H21 series movements increase the value proposition and sets Hamilton apart from the competition by offering an exclusive movement – without any significant increase in the price.

The Jazzmaster series offers classic designs that have a timeless quality about them, without being too stuffy or traditional like many Swiss dress watches. Where most companies mine the golden age of Swiss design in the 1950s and 60s for their dress models, Hamilton draws upon its rich American design heritage. The Jazzmaster is clearly inspired by 1960s American aesthetics, offering softer and more stylized details that still exude elegance. After all Hamilton was one of the premier American watch brands for most of the 20^th century, producing high quality wrist and pocket watches in Lancaster Pennsylvania. The company was purchased by the SSIH (which later became the Swatch Group) in 1971, and production was gradually moved to Switzerland. Today Hamilton is part of the Swatch group, which gives it a leg up on the competition – having access to the Swatch production chain means that Hamilton can make higher quality watches for significantly less money than most midrange Swiss watch brands. Who else offers a Swiss automatic chronograph for under 1500$? Or even under 2000$? Not many brands.

The Auto Chrono is an elegant 42mm design that displays the usual Hamilton traits – sculpted forms on the case, exhibition caseback, sturdy leather strap, clean and nicely detailed dial. It’s a no-nonsense design with fine detail, free from extraneous bobbles. The case is a perfect size for modern tastes, just the right size for a classic design without venturing into oversized territory. Being an automatic chronograph it has a thick case to accommodate the movement; it’s thick for such a classic design, and really makes the watch stand out on the wrist. The case uses the signature Jazzmaster design, with a mixture of brushed and polished elements and flowing lines, a nice departure from the typical boring straight-edge case designs you’ll find in this price category. It’s also quite a heavy case, with a solid heft and substantial feel to the crown and pushers.

The dial is on the Jazzmaster is a treat, featuring a brushed sunburst metallic finish and applied polished hour markers. It’s simple and beautiful, no complaints here. A black dial is also available. The chronograph is laid out in a bicompax fashion, with two registers at 3 and 9 o’clock. Only the running seconds and chronograph minutes are displayed, along with a small date window at 6 o’clock. The date features a handy quickset button on the side of the case rather than a two-position crown – while this might seem like a step backwards, it’s a smart move. Valjoux calibres have always had an issue where quicksetting the date at the wrong time can break the calendar mechanism (never, ever set the date between 9 c’clock and 3 o’clock). The solution is to only quickset when the hour is set near 6 o’clock. Unfortunately it’s quite common to unintentionally quickset the date at the wrong time when you don’t pull the crown out to the second position (Valjoux calibres tend to have stiff crown actions, so you may think you are setting the time but you are in fact still in date set mode). The button negates this error, as there is only one position on the crown.

The strap is a traditional sturdy Hamilton item with croc patterning and contrasting stitching on a tang buckle. On this example strap is a dark chocolate brown with tan stitching, a nice combination with the brilliant silver dial. An optional stainless steel link bracelet is also available.

The Jazzmaster Auto Chrono is typical Hamilton – good quality, great value, beautiful design, and understated elegance. It is not a flashy watch by any means, and that’s fine by me. There is something to be said about a clean, classic and elegant watch that perfectly channels the pure aesthetics of a bygone era without becoming a retro parody of itself. When it comes to value for money, Hamilton is the benchmark for classic Swiss watches (with an American heritage, of course). And now with the addition of the H31 calibre movements, the Jazzmaster series offers even more bang for buck. If you want a nice watch on a modest budget, Hamilton is hard to beat. If you have any questions about Hamilton watches or anything else we carry in store, feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: american, automatic, chronograph, classic, h31, hamilton, jazzmaster, swatch, swiss, valjoux

Bell & Ross Military Ceramic

Ceramic is the latest trend in watch technology, having been dormant for many years. The recent popularity of ceramic watches like the Chanel J12, not to mention the ceramic accents on high-tech watches from Hublot and Audemars Piguet, has created a demand for more and more ceramic designs from a variety of manufacturers. Entering the fray is Bell & Ross with a variety of new ceramic models, including the BR03-92 Military Ceramic (green, as we have here, and blue due later this year) and the upcoming BR01-92 Ceramic.

Bell & Ross has been producing the ceramic BRS ladies models for several years now (produced in close partnership with Chanel, who have a large stake in Bell & Ross), but up until this point they haven’t made any ceramic men’s watches. The BR03-92 Military Ceramic was the first, released last year to wide acclaim. The Military takes the classic Instrument style and updates it without drastically changing anything. The case is a two piece solid ceramic assembly, held together with PVD coated steel screws that are drilled through the four corners of the case. Dimensions are the same as the steel BR03, 42mm square. Oh, and it happens to be matte olive-drab green for a true military look. The colour is interesting; in photos it looks like a hunter green shade, but in person it is more of a khaki-green mix. It is tinted to look like US military olive drab, and it comes quite close to replicating the classic brown-green shade. Weight is very similar to the steel BR03, perhaps slightly lighter (which is to say it has a nice solid heft without being too heavy).

Up until this point all Instruments have been stainless steel or gold, with the odd titanium model (and also the cool as heck Carbon Fibre). The previous Military model had a black PVD coated steel case with green and white dial. The Carbon models (BR speak for PVD coated) are steel underneath the bead-blasted black finish. As anyone with a Carbon model BR knows, the traditional coating can be scratched off to reveal the steel underneath. That’s the big advantage of a ceramic case – it is highly scratch-resistant and uniformly coloured so it won’t show anything else underneath if it does scratch. The hardness of ceramic is akin to sapphire, which means it is very difficult to scratch and ding. However, it is a brittle material – dropping a ceramic watch on a hard surface may shatter the case.

Like the standard BR03 the Ceramic features an automatic Swiss ETA calibre movement with date. The dial is the classic black and white BR style with superluminova. And yes, the dial is black and white– the colour you see in the photos is in fact the crystal that is tinted a soft green colour to match the case. It gives the watch a subdued uniformity and cuts the contrast on the dial – without sacrificing any legibility. Like all BRs the Military has superb luminescence, making it one of the easiest watches in the world to read day or night.

 
Like all Instruments two straps are included. One is a bright green rubber item, the other a green nylon with PVD carbon buckle. Both really compliment the look of the green case nicely; the nylon is my personal favourite, as it offers a comfortable strap that can be washed and re-used when it starts to get a little funky.

The Military Ceramic is a very nice addition to the Instrument collection and a great upgrade to the line. More ceramic models will be forthcoming from Bell & Ross in the coming months, including a very cool Military Blue that will have a navy blue ceramic case and blue-tinted crystal. Also coming soon is the much-awaited BR01 Ceramic, starting with a dressy gloss black item with applied numeral dial. You can be sure that ceramic BRs are the Instrument of the future, a much appreciated upgrade to the ever-popular line. If you have any questions about Bell & Ross or any other brand we carry, feel free to call us at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers
Jason Cormier




 
 

Related tags: automatic, bell ross, br03, ceramic, eta, military, swiss

Watches in Depth - Calendars

Calendar watches are the single most common complication in modern watchmaking. They are so ubiquitous that most people wouldn’t even think they are a complication at all – we’ve become so accustomed to having a date on our watches we take it for granted. The irony in this complacency is that the calendar mechanism can be one of the most difficult and expensive complications to produce when you have to factor in leap years.

The basic mechanical calendar mechanism shows a date through an aperture or extra hand on the dial with no provision for automatically correcting based on the 30-31 day cycle. This is accomplished by having a toothed wheel driven off the base movement that rotates once every 24 hours. The wheel has one extra long tooth that sticks out and mates to a spring-loaded mechanism attached to the date wheel. When the long tooth engages the mechanism, the spring pawl snaps the date forward one notch – the calendar disk (what you see on the dial) having 31 notches. Early date complications had no provision for quick setting – to advance the date (or move it back) you had to roll the hour hands through a full 24 hours for each day.

The next step was to make the date quickset. Today we are accustomed to quicksets by pulling the crown out to the first notch and then rotating. Another older system that is still prevalent is the pushbutton quickset, where a tiny flush-mounted button is integrated into the side of the case. Omega used a different system for many decades where you gently popped the crown out to the second position to instantly advance the date one position (each pull advanced it once, no turning of the crown required). The problem with quicksets that persists to this day is the issue of damaging the mechanism by advancing the quickset during the wrong time. Because the long tooth gear slowly rotates (every 24 hours) the actual action of the date mechanism can take several hours. The danger zone is between 9 and 3 o’clock. If you quickset during that time you risk snapping the tooth off the gear. Nowadays many manufacturers design blocking mechanisms to prevent damage, but many movements still have issues (the ETA/Valjoux series of chronographs like the 7750 are the most commonly afflicted calibres). The solution is to NEVER quickset the date between 9 and 3 o’clock. Always put the hands to 6 o’clock before setting the date.

The next step in the calendar is the day-date and triple date display. A day-date is pretty self-explanatory – the day of the week is displayed along with the date. Essentially the complication of the date is doubled, with two display discs and two advancing mechanisms both engaging at the same time. The triple date takes the day-date and adds a month display that advances every 31 days. It doesn’t factor the 30-31 day cycle, however. The mechanism adds a series of gears that operate a month display that clicks over every 31 days; the principle is the same as a basic date, just with a much longer turnover time.

The next step up in complexity is the annual calendar. Similar to the triple date, the annual calendar factors in the 30-31 day cycle but doesn’t account for leap years. This mechanism has become a signature of Patek Philippe, who produce several annual calendar models. The user only has to correct it once a year, in February. With an annual calendar there is an extra mechanism that will instantly skip over the 31st to the 1st when needed, based on which month is being displayed. An annual calendar is considerably more complex than a simple triple date and commands a significant premium in the luxury market. But it has nothing on the king of calendars – the perpetual calendar.

The perpetual calendar occupies the top tier of complicated watchmaking, being part of the complication trinity that has been a staple of haute-horlogerie for decades – perpetual calendar, chronograph, and minute repeater (nowadays we would add tourbillons to this list as well). A “triple complication” is a watch that combines those three functions - being a chronograph with a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater (see the Patek Philippe 5208 at the bottom of the page for an example). The perpetual calendar is similar to the annual calendar but has the ability to calculate leap years, and often displays the year as well. Most perpetual calendars can accurately calculate the date for 100 years or more – IWC claims a 570-year interval between adjustments! Perpetual calendar mechanisms are extremely complicated, functioning like a mechanical computer with the “data” entered by the gears and levers. It has to calculate true-or-false equations to properly advance the date and month. A special star-shaped gear with a tiny sub-gear attached automatically calculates the leap year cycle as well as the 30-31 day cycle, with provisions for odd years (leap years follow a formula that isn’t necessarily every 4 years – years divisible by 4 are considered leap years except when they are also divisible by 100, but again are considered if they are divisible by 400 – got that?). The depth of the teeth on the gear determine the number of days in the month; when a 30, 28 or 29 day month comes up the gear gathers up a pawl that instantly skips the requisite number of days when the date changes (remember that the date display always has 31 days and the short months need to skip the extra days mechanically). There are "simple" perpetual calendars (simple is a misnomer, even the most basic perpetual mechanism is highly complicated) that only calculate the 4 year cycle, but most true perpetuals nowadays have corrections for odd years. Being so complicated, perpetual calendars are priced accordingly – the most “affordable” perpetual calendars run in the 30 000$ range, and can easily reach into the $100 000 plus range.

Many calendar watches will often have a moonphase complication, something that has become a signature for classic and traditional designs. A moonphase disc displays the cycles of the moon through a crescent-shaped aperture on the dial. The moon rotates slowly, a fraction of a millimetre per day. A full lunar cycle is precisely 29.53 days. This causes problems when designing a complicated movement where precision is demanded. Because of that fractional day the lunar cycle will be slightly off after long periods of running, as it is impossible to gear the display for a precise correction (the normal design is to double the teeth on the display gear and have two moons printed on the disk. 59 teeth on the disc comes close to accurate when you divide it into two cycle of the moonphase). Many solutions have arisen; some are complex mechanism like in an annual or perpetual calendar but dedicated to the moonphase display only, others are a simple mechanical corrector activated by the user (the Jaeger LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire features a button dedicated to correcting the moonphase with a single push). The vast majority of moonphase displays feature no correction, however, and need to be adjusted every few months by the wearer. Not exactly a deal breaker by any means, but when you are building haute-horlogerie pieces it's common to find solutions to very minor problems in the pursuit of ever-more complicated and precise mechanisms.

The calendar is one of the most common mechanical complications available today, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t one of the more complicated. While a simple date is a relatively straightforward addition, a complex calendar with corrections for each month, the moonphase, and leap years is one of the most difficult complications to execute. Don’t take the humble date display for granted: it is a complication like any other, even if it isn’t as glamourous as a tourbillon or a minute repeater. And unlike those fancy displays of haute-horlogerie, the calendar is probably the most useful complication you can have in a watch.

Related tags: annual calendar, calendar, date, day-date, faq, patek philippe, perpetual calendar, swiss, watches in depth

Frederique Constant Peking to Paris Chronograph

Frederique Constant (and sister company Alpina) have a history of interesting sports sponsorships. Alpina sponsors the 12 Hours of Sebring endurance race, while Frederique Constant has been a part of the Lake Geneva Regatta for classic boats (commemorated by the Runabout series), and has also worked with the Austin Healey owners club for the Healey line. The latest limited edition from Frederique follows that same idea of a classic watch for a classic event – the Peking to Paris chronograph commemorates the legendary automobile rally between China and France.

It seems appropriate that Alpina would sponsor Sebring (a modern sportscar and prototype series) while Frederique would cover a classic car event. Alpina produces modern, avant-garde, bold sport watches while FC makes perfectly elegant and classic dress designs. The Peking to Paris model is a great example of FCs retro-modern designs. It is simple and with a traditional layout and design, but the finishing and proportions are definitely modern (and all the better for it). It is clearly inspired by sports chronographs of the 1960s, recreating their tricompax subdial layouts and clean dials with modern levels of detailing. The dimensions are clearly inspired by today’s taste – a solid 43mm, the Peking is large enough to satisfy the modern client who wants something elegant but still big enough to stand out.

The dial of the Peking is flat-out gorgeous, particularly to vintage watch nuts like myself. It channels the spirit of classic chronographs very well, and this version in particular really stands out with its contrasting subdials (aka the Panda dial, which recalls the look of Rolex Paul Newman Daytona chronographs). The base of the dial is a silver grained metallic finish, while the subdials and chapter ring are a matte-black finish for easy legibility and reduced glare. Hands are classic dauphin style (tapering to sharp point) with luminescent inserts on the hour and minute hands. The hour markers are applied batons – look closely and you will see that they have a ball of lume at the outer edge and a stripe of lume running down their centres, a great little detail that increases night-time visibility. And that is what distinguishes Frederique Constant from most brands in this price range – their attention to detail. All FC models are exceptionally well finished and have beautifully designed dials, which gives them the appearance of a watch costing several thousand more.

Inside is a tried-and-true Valjoux automatic chronograph calibre (modified and called the FC396 in Frederique parlance). Laid out in a tricompax (subdials at 3-6-9) manner, it’s a typical Valjoux workhorse – reliable, accurate, and with good function. An exhibition back displays the decorated rotor, with the Peking to Paris logo engraved on the weight. Not much to say here except that you can expect reliable service from such a well-proven calibre, and that FC offers a Valjoux movement at a reasonable price point.

In the case of the Panda dial the strap is a croc-patterned leather item in a subtle charcoal grey shade with white stitching. It matches with the dial perfectly and is well integrated into the case with fitted ends. Other models feature straps tailored to the colour of the dial. The buckle is a nicely finished deployant that slides the excess length on the inside of the strap (ala Tag Heuer) – so you get a clean looking strap without any extra sticking out the side. 

All Peking to Paris models are limited editions of 1888 pieces, like the Runabout series that preceeded them. Each watch numbered and accompanied a certificate of authenticity. That means that you are getting a fair bit of exclusivity, considering how reasonably priced the series is. That’s the beauty of Frederique Constant as a brand – it is still relatively small and exclusive, without being overly expensive. It is a no-nonsense watch brand that produces good, solid designs for reasonable prices, and that is why it has become a Matt Baily favourite here in Montreal.

The Peking to Paris chronograph is another winner from Frederique Constant. Personally I think it is even nicer than the Runabout and Healey series that preceded it, and those were far from boring designs. If you want the looks of a classic chronograph but with modern proportions and function, not to mention limited-edition exclusivity and a reasonable price tag, the Peking is the watch to beat. If you have any questions about the Peking to Paris, Frederique Constant, or any other watches we have in store, please feel free to call me at 514 845 8878 or visit our contact page.

Cheers

Jason Cormier

Related tags: 7750, 7753, Automatic, Chronograph, Frederique constant, classic, dress watch, limited edition, peking, peking to paris, tricompax, valjoux, vintage