Video Review of Frédérique Constant Open Heart Manufacture Moonphase

Not every watch manufacturer makes their watches from the ground-up. Many of the best known Swiss companies purchase ébauches, which are blank or unfinished, high-grade movements produced by third-party companies such as Sellita or E.T.A. Once a brand is able to create their own, in-house mechanisms, it enters a select circle of companies dubbed the Manufactures. A manufacture is able to control the quality and look of their watch mechanisms. This often leads to the creation of amazingly finished spectacles of horology in as the manufacturer attempts to distinguish them from the more common third party ébauches. Frédérique Constant is a remarkable case, because few companies serving the entry-price level luxury market have ventured into manufacture territory. In 2004 the company released an in-house movement with a skeletonized components allowing a clear view of the beating balance assembly, and giving it the name Heart Beat. Since then the Heart Beat has evolved into four distinct calibres including the automatic-winding moon phase version that is featured in the video below.

The first two Frédérique Constant watches featured in the video are Heart Beat Manufacture Moonphase and Date Automatic models. The first is fitted with a minimalistic dial that is almost completely cut out in order to display the bottom plate of the FC-935 calibre, in-house movement. The metal of the mechanism is carefully finished with Côte de Genèves and creates a fantastically raw, but elegant look that highlights the high-grade mechanical movement. The effect is hard to relay through images and video. Although watching the video below in Full 1080HD might give a good idea, this is a timepiece worth seeing live. Later in the video I compare the Côtes de Genève model with the standard model, which offers a smaller view of the finished movement. The phases of the moon and date are displayed very neatly in a subsidiary dial at Twelve o'clock. The overall look is very elegant and classic, capturing the essence of traditional watchmaking, but the Heart Beat Manufactures are far from boring or plain. The 42mm size and wide leather strap are contemporary. I am particularly fond of the round onion crown that Frédérique Constant uses. It is not as conspicuous as those found on Big Pilot style watches, but is a nice clin d'oeil to wristwatches of the Thirties and Forties.

If you do not see the video embeded above, please visit the original post on the Baily Blog.

This blog entry is part of a series produced following a visit to the Frédérique Constant factory in May 2010. To view all the posts in this series visit the "fc visit 2010" tag on the Baily Blog.

Being invited to visit Frédérique Constant and Alpina' headquarters in Geneva, I packed my G11 and HD camcorder and made my way to Plan-les-Ouates. This neighbourhood, as I found out, is home to some of the most prestigious watch companies in the world. Since I had never visited this area before, I opted for the roughly thirty minute walk from the train station to discover it. On the way I encountered manufacturing facilities for Rolex, Patek Philippe, and several other watchmaking giants.

While I was always a fan of Alpina watches, I was still a bit new to FC. During the visit I was not only introduced to many of the two companies' newest models but witnessed how the in-house, manufacture movements are created from the ground up, giving me a new appreciation for how remarkable they are.

I chose my five favourite pictures for this post, but below them you will find a link to the full set of 38 images that I posted on Flikr. The images depict the tour and offer descriptions of each step, so click on "show info" if this interests you. I hope you visit them and that you enjoy them as much as I enjoyed visiting the factory.

This heavy-duty machine carves every part of all the manufacture movements out of solid blocks of metal. A typical piece takes about one hour and a half to be machined with the precision to meet Alpina and Frédérique Constant standards.

All the parts built in the machining room are sent up to this atelier, which is dedicated to the assembly of the remarkable in-house movements built by Alpina and Frédérique Constant. The head watchmaker, with the blue shirt, monitors all work closely and three specialized watchmakers are dedicated to assembling, and servicing the rare and complicated tourbillon mechanisms.

A Frédérique Constant tourbillon cage has been trapped inside a glass block to allow visitors to observe its 80 parts, which include a Silicium escapement wheel, which depicts the company's crest.

Half of a spent silicium wafer. The escapement wheels and levers are cut out of this high-tech material. Each wafer is priced at roughly CHF 60K!

This was my favourite part of the watchmaking atelier. In order to get in, one must go through this cleaning chamber where he or she is shot with jets of air that is consequently aspirated by vacuums in order to be rid of all loose dust particles. It is like an air jacuzzi.

View all 38 items on Flikr as a slideshow

Thank you to everyone at Alpina watches and Frédérique Constant who took time to welcome me warmly into their fantastic work place.

The beauty of vintage Austin-Healey cars is hard to deny. Soft, round curves, glossy chrome accents, hand stitched leather interiors are all appealing features. Frédérique Constant is one of the watch manufacturers that relate to this classic design. Teaming up with Healey collector clubs around the world, FC became the official timing partner for many themed races including the most recent 2010 Healey Challenge in the UK. What better way for a watch company to celebrate such a partnership than with the release of a limited edition timepiece? Alas the Frédérique Constant Healy Chrono Automatic.

The New Automatic chronograph offers a few perks for collectors. Each variation will be produced in limited numbers. 1,888 copies of each model will be built. A specialized presentation case will carry each watch as well as a matching mechanical stop-watch symbolizing the importance of timekeeping in the world of sport racing.

A dark brown dial and strap are fitted on the rose gold plated version of the Healey Chrono

Austin-Healy, high-performance sports cars are characterized by classy and elegant designs. Inspired by this design, the case of the Healy Auto Chronograph, is classically sporty. The 43mm, stainless steel case is finished by hand to a immaculate shine and plated with rose gold for model number FC-392CH6B4. The bezel and side of the case are rounded mirroring the intakes and curvatures of the Big Healeys. The back of the case is equipped with a see-through sapphire window which exhibits the movement like an engine. Healey Drivers Club of the UK, the world's oldest Club, has their logo engraved near the individual watch number. A screw-locking crown and a water resistance rating of 100 meters ensures that the Healey Chrnographs can be submerged safely in shallow water, which I doubt is the case for the cars that will take part in the race.

Like a chromed V8, The FC-392 calibre movement displays immaculate finishing techniques and a solid assembly. The self-winding chronograph movement is based on the workhorse ETA 7750 mechanism, which beats at 28,800 vph and offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. All specialized finishing, engraving, and modifications to the mechanism are effectuated at the Frédérique Constant facilities in Geneva, which are equipped to manufacture movements from the ground up.

On the dial of the Healey Chronograph are the most notable tips of the hat to the Healey cars. The logo is clearly displayed near the three o'clock mark and the bold Arabic numerals are in the styles as on a speedometer. The hour markers are applied to the dial and therefore are slightly raised. Phosphorescent paint coats them. The white version of the dial on the FC-392HSDG6B6 is quite dashing. It is accented using the dark green of the Healey logo. On the rose gold model, a semi-glossy, dark brown dial with the same applied, luminous markers. Thick alpha hands tell the time and tiny leaf-shaped hands indicate the chronograph's stop-watch measurements within the subsidiary dials. Details such as these beautiful subsidiary hands and raised markers are welcome by watch enthusiasts who can never look at a piece from too close.

The Healey Chronos are available in stainless steel and with a warm rose gold plating

The Frédérique Constant Healey Chronograph limited edition models are an homage to the collectible vintage sports cars by way of stylistic details such as the rounded sides and bezel and the Healey logo on the dial. The The Healey Drivers Club's logo is engraved as a nod to the world's oldest club of Austin-Healey car collectors and host of the 2010 Healy Challenge in the UK. Watch collectors will appreciate the specialized presentation case, matching mechanical stop watch that come with every Healey Chronograph, as well as the limited production numbers of the watches in the collection.

Contact the Matt Baily boutique for more information on the Frédérique Constant Healey Chrono-Automatic watches.

The limited edition Healey Chrono-Automatic come with a matching, mechanical stopwatch.

It is natural for fathers to want the best for their sons. When it comes to watches, a high-quality Swiss timepiece has often been too expensive to justify as a gift for a young man, even though many companies offer specifically suitable models. Traditionally, mid-size watches, which are smaller then the full, man sizes yet still considerably larger then woman's, have served the young market segment. But often these mid-size models are as expensive as their full-size counterparts. This probably explains why most young people's first high-end watch is handed down from their parents. If you are not quite ready to hand over your luxury watch however, Frédérique Constant revealed a new watch that targets young watch lovers and is priced accordingly to their tumultuous and dynamic lifestyles. A Frédérique Constant Junior is a good introduction to luxury watches for any young watch lover and, thanks to high quality Swiss manufacturing, will last for future generations as well.

The stainless steel case is 38mm in diameter, which is just below what you would expect from a modern watch for men. While the watch is intended for "young gentlemen 12-16 years of age," I see grown men wearing watches this size often. Other grown-up features of the Junior include a sapphire crystal and Frédérique Constant's automatic-winding FC 303 calibre movement. The movement's balance wheel and rotor are visible through a sapphire window on the back of the case. This mechanism is indeed a serious machine, based on ETA's infamous, 25-jewel 2824-2.

The style of the watch is classic and based on the sporty look of the race-oriented Healy Automatic. Photo-luminescent paint is applied to the hands and numerical hour markers. The leather strap is hand stitched and is black to match the black dial or light brown with the white dial. The style is simple and does not boast the true luxury of the watch. Thanks to its timeless style and superior quality, an FC Junior will surely be around for the next generation to enjoy.

The Frédérique Constant Junior is conceived to be an important, and meaningful gift for a young man. It can commemorate a milestone or carry a symbolic message with a personalized engraving on its case back, and high-end Swiss manufacturing assure that it will be enjoyed for many years.

Visit Frédérique Constant's Junior mini-site to design your own FC Junior. To leave comments on this and all our blog posts, visit the Matt Baily facebook fan page.

In the past few years there has been an increase of mechanical, luxury ladies watches. An growing number of women appreciate the fine aspects of a Swiss mechanical movement as much as the fashion and jewellery aspects of watches. In order to distinguish a mechanical watch from quartz, companies have often placed an aperture on the dial to demonstrate parts of the mechanism underneath. Frédérique Constant is one of the several companies to have played with this feature by shaping the aperture or integrating it in the design of the dial. The Frédérique Constant Ladies Automatic Love Heart Beat for instance, uses the round window in place of the O in the word love that is inscribed on the watch's dial with diamonds.

In their press communication, Frédérique Constant actually refers to the word as "Love," due to the size of the first two letters on the watch dial. The L and O are capitalized in order to accommodate the opening at Twelve o'clock. Through this aperture, we are offered a glimpse at the automatic movement. Diamonds are hand set along the lines of the letters and balance really well with the iridescence of the dial's mother of pearl. More diamonds are used for the hour markers. A nice touch that many will appreciate is a tiny heart pattern displayed in the centre of the watch's face.

The quality of the diamonds is high. Although small, each diamond is a full cut round brilliant. The colour and clarity of the stones is not only very well matched, but the diamonds are impressively clear and display near colourless to colourless quality. While this quality is common in similar luxury products in higher price brackets, it is not the case for those in the same class as the FC Automatic Love Heart Beat.

Seen through the "Love" window is the heart of the automatic FC-310HG-2 calibre movement, its balance wheel. When in motion, the balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz, causing the seconds hand to tick eight times per second and evoking the famous sweep-seconds visual effect of self-winding watches. Upon close inspection, it is possible to see how the movement's bottom plate was cut out to allow for a view of the balance wheel and polished with a beautiful brushed perlage finish.

At first glance the Frédérique Constant Ladies Automatic Love Heart Beat is a beautifully decorated fashion accessory, but looking through the aperture on its dial it is evident that its beauty is not only skin deep. Diamonds, silk, and a sapphire cabochon on the crown are in perfect balance with the fine Swiss mechanical workmanship that lies within. For a woman that believes that fashion goes hand in hand with quality, value, and longevity, the Love Heart Beat is the perfect match.

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