Hamilton X-Mach - A Modern Tribute to Aviation and Speed

What kind of "American Brand" would Hamilton be if it did not obsess with aeroplanes and speed? The company has an entire family of watches that are dedicated to flight, containing some popular models like the X-Wind and X-Copter. The newest addition to the Aviation family of watches is the X-Mach; able to calculate your Mach number (how fast you are going relevant to the speed of sound). I would love to hear stories of individuals putting this function to the test in real life while I will be content to measure what Mach number I am able to reach on my flight simulator.

The calculation of the Mach number is done directly on the 44mm, stainless steel case of the Hamilton X-Mach. It is equipped with two rotating bezels and several graduated scales that act like a slide rule. After the pilot sets certain static data such as pressure altitude, International Standard Atmosphere and calibrated air speed the Mach speed is revealed. I am certainly not the only one that is unfamiliar with these terms, but there is a lot to appreciate about this watch aside from its calculations.

One thing I prefer on X-Mach over its predecessor - the X-Wind - is that it has one less crown. While it is fun to learn about and tinkering with the Aviation watches' functions - and fantasize about one day putting them into practice - it is less confusing and more comfortable to have less crowns. Both crowns on the Khaki X-Mach are screw-locking and have a modern, slanted grip pattern engraved on them. The clous de Paris or hobnail elements on the side of the case are nice, sporty touches without being too conspicuous.

Other important features of the X-Mach include the ETA 7750 calibre automatic movement which is partially visible through the back of the watch case. This infamous mechanism is a testament to Swiss manufacturing quality. It offers chronograph, day, and date functions that are displayed on the X-Mach's multi-level, two-tone dial. The fact that the time is easy to read regardless of all the markings on the dial is a sign of good design. In my opinion Hamilton has consistently improved their watch dial designs since we became an official retailer. An other aspect that has gotten better are the straps. The X-Mach offers offers the option of several choice straps like the leather and carbon fibre band that comes with the black PVD model or the padded leather strap on the stainless steel version.

Measuring how much faster you are going then the speed of sound is probably not something you will do often. The true attraction to the Hamilton X-Mach is the instrumental style, quality, and great value. The innovative use of the bezel is more important as a distinguishing feature that will be appreciated by pilots or aviation aficionados. Overall the Khaki X-Mach shows me that Hamilton's designers are on the ball and that the company is dedicated to its aviation-loving fans.

For over five years, Matt Baily has set itself apart from other watch stores in Montreal by bringing in exciting, new, up-and-coming brands. When looking at a possible new brand to carry, quality is the first prerequisite and is followed by value and potential. This is how we took up dealership of brands like Bell & Ross and U-Boat for which we were the first dealers in Canada. With this list, we highlight five watches from our collections that have swayed trends and turned the most heads.

#5. Alpina Avalanche Extreme Manufacture Regulator

The Avalanche Extreme Manufacture Regulator represents the future of mid-range luxury watches. It is a sporty watch; able to withstand the strain of outdoor activities with a water resistance rating of 200 meters and a rubber strap. Like many watches in its class, the elements of its case are almost as complex as those of its movement. Several different tones, wild shapes, and a multi-layered dial make up the head of the watch. With watch enthusiasts accepting mechanized manufacturing as an integral part of watchmaking, many modern watches portray the same attributes.

What makes the Manufacture Regulator special is its movement. The automatic-winding AL-925 calibre is manufactured in the company's Geneva factory. The reason that this is so important is due to the restricted supply of mechanical movements that will take effect in 2010 (more on ETA's change in supply in this past blog post). Alpina's in-house movement adds great value and uniqueness, yet the Manufacture Regulators are offered at prices comparative to those of watches equipped with ETA mechanisms. The Regulator attracts many collectors thanks to its traditional complication and fine finishes. It reinforces the notion that a rugged sport watch can portray many features of sophistication.

#4. Hamilton Jazzmaster Maestro.

Aside from being unusually large compared to other elegant watches, it's styling is not particularly unique; nor are its day, date, and chronograph functions. What sets the Hamilton Jazzmaster Maestro aside from other watches in its class is value. This is true for every Hamilton watch, making it difficult to choose one that has been most influential. It finally came down to choosing a watch that is amongst the best sellers and also captures Hamilton's long history.

The Maestro is an automatic-winding chronograph, with a sizable 44mm stainless steel case and a simple, classic look. The infamous 7750 calibre movement is what runs its functions and is also a major reason for its great value. ETA's 7750 is a proven, precision mechanism. Thousands of these have been certified by the COSC to be chronometers, a denomination symbolizing superior precision and quality. It is the movement of choice for many high-end automatic chronograph watches. The Portuguese Chronograph, Chronomat, and Daylight chrono are three examples of models that rely on the 7750. These three models are also priced between three and six times more then the Maestro.

Thanks to their extraordinary value, the Hamilton line of watches has enabled many watch lovers to purchase their first high-end, Swiss-made, automatic chronograph.

#3. Corum Golden Bridge

The Golden Bridge did not "change" how we see luxury watches as much as it "reminded" us how we should look at them.

Corum has always staid current with trends such as the large size of watch cases and extreme luxury for sporty watches. However, they never severed their strong relationship with the traditional methods of watchmaking. This is what makes the Golden Bridge such an important watch. While modernized in design, with a relatively large case and precise machining, it could not exist without the skilled hands of traditional watchmakers.

To manufacture the narrow, manual-winding CO113 movement that gives the watch its name, the skilled hands of watchmakers and artists are essential. Due to this labour intensive process, the production quantity is naturally limited to small numbers each year. A video produced by Corum captures some key aspects of manufacturing the Bridge movement like engraving, assembling, and finishing, which are all done by hand. Visit the Film Gallery in the Communication section of Corum.ch.

Once completed the Golden Bridge watch embodies all the aspects of what luxury watches represent. Value, technological innovation, precision, and the artist's touch that is unreproducible by any machine. I don't think I have ever heard a negative comment about the Golden bridge watches, and their value is obvious to first-time watch buyers and ardent collectors alike. The Golden Bridge is in this list because it re-sparked our fascination with the storied trade of watchmaking.

#2. U-Boat Italo Fontana Classico

U-Boat watches are definitely buzz worthy. Amongst all the articles that I have posted on mattbaily.ca and other sites, the ones that receive the most tweets, clicks, and visitors, are almost always about U-Boat watches. This is not to say that everyone that reads these articles is a fan, but they are certainly interested. This visibility is what accounts for the inclusion of U-Boat Classico watches in this list.

When Matt Baily discovered U-Boat watches and was the first to bring them to Canada, they almost all worked on quartz movements. Italo Fontana decided to improve the quality of those original, fashion-oriented watches and equip them with high-end Swiss mechanical movements. The prices naturally increased and many were sceptical of U-Boat#39;s breaking the higher end, luxury market. Instead it was the market that was drawn towards the new and improved U-Boat Classicos.

U-Boat does very little advertising. The vast majority of the U-Boat Classicos that we sell are discovered in our window or on the wrists of friends and family. They are watches that you just fall in love with. What we learn from their success is that the style of a watch - if backed by quality - is still its most important attribute. U-Boat watches also show that if the product is valuable, then advertising and branding is of lesser importance.

#1. Bell & Ross BR-01 92

When this watch was released by Bell & Ross, the company was already steadily growing thanks to its high quality, value, and brand image. While it was obvious from the start, that the "Instruments" would be a success, it was less evident how profoundly they would affect the company's popularity.

When the BR-01 92 was released, many people seeing it for the first time reacted as if they had never seen a square watch before. It is arguable that before this point, square watches were a niche that went largely unnoticed. Judging from the amount of square, military-style models that were released after the advent of the Instruments, it is safe to say that they have had a strong, positive impact on the watch making industry.

Since the BR-01 92 and 94, Bell & Ross has greatly expanded the Instrument collection including extremely complicated watches such as the BR Tourbillon and the more fashion oriented BR-S Ceramics. While this article is meant to feature only watches amongst those we carry at Matt Baily, the BR Instrument would surely figure on any list of top influential timepieces of the past ten years.

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While all these watches have had an impact on the luxury watch industry as a whole, we chose pieces from our brands only, so it is likely that many watches that you may consider more influential are not present.

Comment on this and all our posts on the Matt Baily Watches facebook page.

I've only begun watching the show recently, but I gather that Mad Men is set in the business world of the sixties, when care free behaviour was at its prime. Smoking and drinking at the office was commonplace and the marketing industry was booming and taking shape. During this era the American watch industry was also in good shape with Hamilton as a key player. In the show's fifth episode of this season a Hamilton Electric makes a quick appearance.

The watch was seen for only a few seconds and from fairly far away. I would not have recognized it if the man wearing it did not mention that it said "Hamilton Electric" on the watch. On standard definition television, I could make out that the watch had a stepped bezel and a round case, but not with a high degree of certainty. It could therefore be the world's first electric watch, the Hamilton Electric 500. It could also have been a . Hamilton announced the first ever battery-operated watch in 1957.

Because the protagonist of Mad Men holds an executive position at a marketing company, the show often features products of the sixties. Some think this has increased the popularity of vintage items. David Colman of the New York Times, wrote an article on the subject. Hamilton watches have indeed been gaining in popularity in the past couple of years. It is possible that vintage styles such as those offered by the Jazzmaster Auto Chrono and Viewmatic are becoming popular again, but I think it has more to do with Hamilton watches' great value and timeless design.

In the October Issue of O Magazine, Oprah Winfrey sports a Hamilton Khaky Navy GMT. The model that she wears is The gold-tone version with the white dial and white rubber strap. According to Hamilton, the talk-show legend chose the watch to wear during the cover shoot, but loved it so much that she decided to buy it after the shoot. She is seen wearing it throughout the issue along side (amongst others) Jay-Z, who is as always wearing an Audemars Piguet.

The Navy GMT runs on an automatic Swiss movement and offers two timezone displays as well as multi-level rotating bezel. The watch case is made of stainless steel coated via PVD in rose gold. The rose gold tone and white face and bracelet is what gives the watch its attractive mix of elegant and sporty style.

Presented at the Baselworld fair earlier on this year, the Ventura Elvis Anniversary collections celebrate Elvis Presley's upcoming 75th birthday on January 8 of 2010. Two varieties will make up the collection. The first will replicate the original Ventura model that Elvis wore during the shooting of Blue Hawaii, while the second revives the futuristic and innovative spirit of the original model.

The XXL Ventura will surely attract most of attention as it offers a large case and a new design. The Ventura of the 1950s broke ground by being the first electronic wrist watch. In order to highlight this advancement in horology, Hamilton's designers conceived the watch's futuristic style case. In the same spirit, today's designers meant to highlight the originality of the Ventura by creating a new, contemporary version. The shield shape remains, but on the XXL the size of the case is much bigger and the contours of the case much sleeker. The stepped lugs are slanted and the lines of the crown integrate seamlessly with the three o'clock marker. With a specialized black rubber strap, which also follows the lines of the case, the XXL Ventura Elvis Anniversary offers a more contemporary view of futurism with a better integrated and more pleasing style.

To pay tribute to the Ventura that started it all, Hamilton is also offering a replica of the original watch, which will run on an ETA quartz calibre. The iconic triangular shape, thin bezel, and stepped lugs are revived with a stainless steel and a gold PVD versio. Both of these models come with a matching two-tone leather strap or the less traditional elastic metal bracelet, which Elvis Presley had had fitted onto his watch at the time of purchase.

The XXL Ventura will be produced in limited quantities until the end of 2010, when it will be discontinued. Contact us for more information.

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