The Story of U-Boat Watches From Matt Baily to Baselworld 2010
by Marco Gagliano on July 9, 2010
tagged as: history baselworld Watches U-Boat
The luxury watch industry is quite hard to break into. Very few young companies are able to achieve success in their first decade of operation. Since its opening in 2004, Matt Baily Marchand de Montres et Bijoux has been keen on finding these forward-thinking, innovative, companies as they emerge. U-Boat, based near Florence in the Italian town of Lucca, is a good example of a young company that sparked Matt's attention. Matt Baily discovered the U-Boat watches while perusing the aisles of Baselworld 2005. Thanks to Italo Fontana's design skills, the U-Boat watch brand has risen drastically in popularity over the years while maintaining the rarity and cachet of a small manufacturer.
Once Matt discovered the Italian U-Boat brand, he was so excited about bringing their watches into the store that the negotiations did not last long. We received our first shipment shortly after his return from Basel. The first watches that U-Boat was manufacturing were mostly equipped with Japanese, Myota quartz movements. While still high-grade items, the original Lefthooks and Lefthook Cronos were devised as luxury fashion accessories rather than watches for connoisseurs. Many visitors to the boutique then, and still now, were stunned by the size of the 53mm LeftHooks. The crown system on the left of every watch was another oddity. This feature is what puts the "left" in "Lefthook." We later discovered that all U-Boat watches have a left hand configuration, because of what inspired Italo Fontana to start producing watches. His grandfather drew up an idea for a watch in 1942. This timepiece, which has been replicated in 2009 with a very special edition called the U-1942, featured a large, robust crown system that was placed on the left side of the case to enhance comfort. This left handed configuration was a major key in the success of U-Boat watches. It made the 45, 48, and 53mm timepieces surprisingly comfortable. Each model was a limited edition, showing that these were not massed produced, but exclusive, luxury items.
The U-1942 is based on plans drawn up by Italo Fontana's grandfather in 1942
During the first year at Matt Baily, U-Boat watches were a definitive success. The timepieces were priced well, manufactured in Italy, and the LeftHook style was unique and interesting. As each model was a limited edition, many of the styles started to disappear, and less and less new styles were released. For a while it got very difficult to obtain the watches our clients wanted. The reason for this scarcity turned out to be that the company had stepped up their watchmaking skills and replaced their entire collection of quartz watches with new models running on high-end, Swiss, mechanical movements. The Classico collection is what resulted from the company's shift to high end horology. Visually it was almost the same as the LeftHooks, except for numerous key differences including a see-through back, slightly thicker case, and engraved metal plate on the strap. I have come up with two possible reasons that the company may have had to change their watches. Confronted with the popularity of their first series and a desire to expand, Italo Fontana and company had a choice between increasing production of their current models, or to create a higher-end product and keep production numbers low. Keeping with the original non-mass-production approach, the company chose the latter option. There is also the possibility that turning upscale was always in the plan and that the quartz models were a form of market research. One thing is for sure. The original quartz models have consequently become somewhat collectible.
The Classico Chronograph Automatic Steel (CAS) is part of the current collection of U-Boat watches
The original mechanical models, many of which are still in production, made the use of Swiss mechanical movements and featured The improved cases. The finish became finer and a wide see-through window was fitted to the back of each watch to show-off the high grade, Swiss mechanics. Other aspects such as the strap and crown were improved as well. The price jumped accordingly, roughly doubling the starting price of a U-Boat watch, but any doubts of whether watch enthusiasts would embrace the higher end, new models soon vanished. Not only did U-Boat gain in popularity they began attracting the attention of celebrities. Sylvester Stallone is a notable VIP U-Boat fan. His representatives originally contact the Matt Baily Boutique thinking that we were the manufacturers. Mr. Stallone had encountered the watches in Italy and his people found our website which displayed the watches. Eventually, Sly became U-Boat's most famous customer. A good indication of this is that the most popular entry of all times on the Baily Blog is Dino's Stallone Jumps on the U-Boat Bandwagon.
With the advent of the new U-Boat watches, two new collections where introduced. The 50mm square Thousands of Feet and the very popular Flighdeck Chronographs and three-hand watches. Every aspect of U-Boat watches is regularly improved. Over time sapphire crystals have become standard on all models, the crown cap has become sturdier, and the leather straps are now fitted with folding deployante clasps and more comfortable leather. Horologically speaking, the company is proving itself with the release of the U-51 Rattrapante Chronograph, their first complicated watch, and fantastically innovative designs like the U-42 and Flightdeck Ceramic bezels.
The success of the first ten years of the company were represented at Baselworld 2010. When Matt Baily found the U-Boat watches, Italo Fontana's booth was small and located in a secondary hall of the watch fair. In 2010, a luxurious, multilevel structure was erected in Hall 1 amongst the watch world's greats, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, the Swatch Group. In regards to this achievement Italo commented that ""it is incredible, but true," and expressed great pride for the work him and his associates have done in the past. It was a long ascent to achieve in such a short period, and only the beginning of the U-Boat story.
Matt Baily and Italo Fontana at the U-Boat Booth at Baselworld 2010
Clock Exhibit in Quebec Inspires a Closer Look at Canadian Watch Industry
by Marco Gagliano on January 22, 2010
tagged as: watchmaking clocks history
On the first of December, 2009 a new exhibition was inaugurated in Quebec City highlighting several antique timepieces of the Assemblée Nationale. The idea of the Horloges et Débats exhibit is to showcase the delicate, personal work done by watchmakers at the turn of the 20th century. A collection of fifteen patrimonial clocks are presented with the building's clock tower as the focus. This impressive clock was created by famous Quebec City native, watchmaker, inventor (of the telephone receiver), and politician Cyrille Duquet. This temporary exhibit is an interesting stop for watchmaking enthusiasts living in, or visiting the beautiful provincial capital. It also persuaded me to delve a little into the Canadian watchmaking industry.
While today there are essentially no Canadian manufacturers of watch components, the history of Canadian watchmaking does show that several important companies, watchmakers, and horological schools were based in Canada. An interesting article on the subject lives on the on the online Canadian Encyclopedia, and shows that between 1872 and 1941 two large scale clock manufacturers and a school of high horology were based in Ontario. While these companies imported blank embauché movements and encased them in Canadian-made casings, at least one other important company during that time manufactured the entire clock and movement in-house. Two of these all-Canadian, Arthur Péquegnat clocks are part of the exhibit at the Horloges et Débats exhibit.
All-Canadian manufacture clocks by Arthur Péquegnat
Today, the Canadian watch industry is not completely dead. I was able to find a couple of watch companies that are based in Canada, but neither actually manufacture any essential parts like case or movement. The extent of watchmaking in Canada is currently being kept alive by the Watchmaking and Jewellery School at the Bel-Avenir centre in Trois-Rivières.
I would be glad to see a watchmaker, collector, or investor one day revive this old tradition. While "made in Canada" may not be a very marketable phrase in the world of watches, it would offer certain clear advantages. The prices of luxury watches made in Canada would not incorporate any import fees and would be stable, as it would not be based on the US Dollar or Swiss Franc. The end consumer and the environment would also benefit from the decrease in transportation. The fact that we live just north of one of the biggest watch markets in the world doesn't hurt either.
For more information on the subjects on this article visit the following links:
- Horologes et Débats exhibit on the Assebl$eacute;e Nationalle's website
- Watchmaking school on Bel-Avenir Centre website
- Article about Canadian watch and clock making history on the Canadian Encyclopedia
If you have comments or ideas regarding watchmaking in Canada, you can post them in the notes tab of our facebook page.
A History of Bell & Ross at Matt Baily
by Marco Gagliano on January 6, 2010
tagged as: watches history bell & ross
In 2004, Bell & Ross was a sleeping giant. Matt Baily caught on early to their potential, and joined their retailer network in time to witness one of the greatest success stories of the modern watch industry. Now recognizable all over the country, it wasn't so when Matt Baily Marchand de Montres et Bijoux became the first Canadian dealer of Bell & Ross in 2004. The Montreal boutique remained the sole retailer to sell the watches in Canada until the introduction of the BR Instruments exploded their popularity in later years. As an employee of Matt Baily, I witnessed the company"s transformation watch by watch.
A Brief History of Bell & Ross Before Matt Baily
Bell & Ross started as a university project presented by Bruno Belamich as part of his curriculum in Paris. Belamich enlisted the help of his friend Carlos A. Rosillo and Helmut Sinn of Sinn watches, who manufactured their first designs. This collaboration spawned Bell & Ross, who's name is derived from the names of its founders. The pair produced several models which were eventually met with enthusiasm at the 1995 international watch fair of Basel. In 1997, Belamich and Rosillo strike a financing deal with a luxury product giant providing Bell & Ross with funds and manufacturing facilities in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Between 1995 and 98, the Bell & Ross watch collection included the record breaking Hydro Challenger (predecessor of the Hydromax 11000), the innovative Space 3, and a few other watches from the Vintage and Classic collections.
Matt Baily Presents Bell & Ross to Canada
In early 2004 one of Matt Baily's more active customers had spotted a limited edition, rose gold Vintage Jump hour during his travels. As Matt is known as a retailer of up-and-coming watch brands, he was asked by the client if he could procure him one of these peculiar, elegant, and little-known watches. Having seen and loved the Bell & Ross timepieces at a recent trade-fair, Matt contacted the brand's representative and arranged to become the first Canadian retailer authorized to sell Bell & Ross watches.
Defining the Brand Prior to the BR-01.
During the first year and a half that we carried the Bell & Ross line it was evident to me that the company would become successful. The manufacturer stated a clear philosophy that it upheld with every model they designed. Their guiding principles assured that the watches incorporated function, quality, and a perfectly balanced and easy to read style. The watches were backed by the highest quality service with prompt helpful replies to our customers' enquiries. Quick repairs and parts delivery made servicing clients a breeze.
The brand's image, propagated by a sensible yet steady flow of understated adverts, reflects what many think to be the essence of luxury watches: quality, function, and beauty. The uniqueness of the Bell & Ross persona plays an important role to the company's notoriety. Professionals from fields such as bomb disposal and aviation not only inspired the timepieces, but took part in designing them, and are the focus on many of the company's advertisements. Even with the advent of the BR-01 Instruments and their conspicuous style, Bell & Ross has not strayed from its original philosophy.
The Bell & Ross Instruments
The first images of the BR-01 Instruments that Matt brought back from Basel showed a big square watch designed to look like the gauges on aeroplane instrumentation panels. Judging from the success of other large military-style watches such as U-Boats or Panerais, we were all excited about this new concept. The look was new and cool, but there was something not quite right. Matt pointed it out. The original strap fitted on the Instruments was completely straight - without the shoulders and width that now integrate the strap to the case - and made of semi-glossy leather. It did not quite balance with the large, military style and finish of the cases. Thankfully, the straps were redesigned shortly after the release of the watches to look like the ubiquitous version that we know today.
Right from the start, the BR-01s were acclaimed. Soon after, Bell & Ross released the smaller, 42mm BR-03 watches in an attempt to bring the square Instrument look to a wider range of enthusiasts. Ironically, the BR-03 allowed many who were originally apprehensive about trying the 46mm BR-01 to work up to it and find that they actually preferred the larger size. Nevertheless, the BR-03 watches are often praised to this day as one of the best luxury sport watches available.
The success of the Instruments became most evident with the release of the first limited edition versions of the watch. Four BR models were fashioned using bright orange markers and hands. 250 pieces of each BR Orange model were offered to the public. Catalysed by Robin Williams wearing the BR-01 92 Orange on a network late night show, the the demand for all the versions quickly surpassed their supply. Nearly all 1000 pieces had been sold before leaving Bell & Ross. The success of the Orange Instruments sparked a tradition of limited edition Colour Instruments including infamous models such as the BR-01 Phantoms.
Bell & Ross Tackles Complicated Horology
One of the ways many watch manufacturers show their horological prowess, is by creating ultra complicated models. The BR-01 Tourbillon was announced at the 2007 Baselworld fair in Switzerland. Demonstrating the level of Bell & Ross' popularity and their status amongst the leading watch companies, all sixty watches of the limited series were allotted by the end of the fair despite the US$135,000 retail price. As always, innovative design and technology prevailed. The movement was conceived and produced exclusively for Bell & Ross by one of Switzerland's best reputed manufacturers of ultra complicated movements. The Tourb pionnered the use of the ultra-hard diamond-like-carbon coating (DLC) for watches, and incorporates unique features such as carbon fiber bridges on the movement. The BR-01 Tourbillon showcases Bell & Ross' desire to innovate and their commitment to their guiding principles.
Since the first Bell & Ross watch passed through the Matt Baily boutique, we have become enamoured - as many of our clients have - with the company's products and philosophy. The quality, service, and design that captured us, also explains the success enjoyed by the relatively young but established watch brand. Throughout the years we have followed the steps that Bell & Ross took to achieve their present status as an industry leader. We look forward to the surprises, innovations, and - of course - new models to come in the future.
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